Here's my two vehicles:
Lurch:
shackle reversal
soa
35's
fuel injection
new rear bumper
winch
soft top
rear locker
The camaro:
rebuild rear axle
replace auburn diff with zexel torsen
ported heads
supercharger
rollcage
new back tires
Here's my two vehicles:
Lurch:
shackle reversal
soa
35's
fuel injection
new rear bumper
winch
soft top
rear locker
The camaro:
rebuild rear axle
replace auburn diff with zexel torsen
ported heads
supercharger
rollcage
new back tires
"You know, this car is so fast, that giving Corvette owners this car, is kinda like giving an AK-47 to a pysch ward."
-Ron Fellows (Corvette C6R Team Driver)
mmm...
full width 44 front
full DOM/heimjoint steering linkage
full width 8.8 rear w detroit
possibly coil spring the rear then bobbing for 90* departure
4.56s
full cage
engine crossmember
new front driveshaft
MAYBE new motor
MAYBE manual tranny
MAYBE sell the 35s and rims, buy 36s or 37s....
.
.
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..if interested in the 35s let me know.
4 35x12.50x15 mud kings, 95% tread, full road hazard, and a BFG mt same size... all mounted on black rims, 5 on 4.5" pattern.
I may have termed this wrong, but for the life of me I can't remember what its actually called. Maybe chaining down the engine? The reason I need to do this is to keep my motor mounts alive. Toyotas with 200+ crawl (I'm at 223) ratios often snap engine mounts becuase the tcase mount doesn't do much to combat the engine/tranny/tcase from movement caused by torque.Originally posted by Gullybasher
Hey LostIt,
Why would you, and how wouldyou: chain engine mounts to frame
There are some aftermarket mounts out there, but most fail just as much as a stock mount, and the few that don't often vibrate you to death. So the best option for me is to weld a chain in there to allow a little movement, but not enough to allow breakage
I ran a bolt through my motor mounts and tightened to my liking, seems jeeps with 30:1 (crawl?) ratio have the same problem.
Hell, even suzuki's are even known to break thier tcase mounts. Its just an inherent problem with inline engines (eight, you have a I6 right?). The problem with toyota's is slighty magnified by the design of the tcase mount, which basically just mounts to the bottom of the tcase, and gives little resistance to the engine rolling under torque. Eight, what does a jeep's tcase mount look like? Some people with lots of gearing never have a problem, while others can break theirs with the stock setup. Personally I just want to stop mine before I'm left driving back home from the trail with a busted motor mount.
driving with a broken motor mount sucks, especially with a 300+ HP engine and a heavy foot on the skinny pedal
Tate - you still have that kind of power? what do you have in there and what is done to it?
Also - I am finally finished with the charging sytem stuff. I ended up with a new alternator and a new serpentine belt for a grand total of 12 bucks. There was another alternator, two reciepts faxed, and at least 3 trips to the parts store in between.
Seth
Jeeps mount an arm to the bottom of the tranny, with a tranny mount directly underneath the case and a bolt with a bushing at the end of the arm to control torque.
Lots of folks run into trouble when they modify the mounts at one end of their drive train without making a similar adjustment at the other end. For example, running poly mounts at the engine with a tired old tranny mount allows for more movement at the tranny then engine. This causes the engine mounts to absorb all the torque, rather than splitting it evenly, causing broken motor mounts or cracks where you don’t want them.
The key is balance. So if you chain the engine down, you might want to consider an outrigger on the tranny with a chain that limits it too.
-Mark
Just when you though it was safe to go back in the water...
And if you only limit it at the torque arm, the bottom of your aluminum tranny breaks off.
shouldn't have used an aluminum cased tranny...
Doug
so should I be worried that my sm420 to 300 adapter is made of aluminum and thats where the mount bolts toOriginally posted by Krawler68
shouldn't have used an aluminum cased tranny...
Doug
If there was a way to get an aluminum case for my d300 or sm420 and I could afford it, I'd do it in a minute.
...
Yes, the aluminum tranny will go in the third round of jeep modifications. I welded it back together and its still working so I'll just see how long it lasts. And why do I have an aluminum tranny you might ask? Maybe because I have about as much money in the jeep as you do in that dana 44. After the axles and steering and brakes and wheels and tires and all the little stuff to go along with them, and selling my current tires and wheels ( and axles?) I'll be just above the 3K mark. Mine might be the only TAMOR rig that would sell for more than I've got in it.
yup, it is a 351M bored .40 over with a larger cam, hooker super comp headers, blah blah i dont really remember... my mechanic went nuts with it... i am gonna put it on a dino this summer and see what i got... he said i am pushing 350+ but i doubt thatOriginally posted by Seth
Tate - you still have that kind of power? what do you have in there and what is done to it?
Most people with yotas just chain the mounts on both sides of the engine, and have no problems with the tcase mount. The rear mount is strong, its just with it being so far back once the dual cases are in, it really has a hard time helping to combat the engine rolling under torque. But if a problem ensues, I will make the modifications to solve it. Also, I'm thinking about bodylifting my truck an inch or so, and if I do this, I hope to do a drivetrain lift as well. Budbuilt had some really sweet crossmembers for this with dual tcase mounts, which will really beef things up, as well as give the truck a flat belly.Originally posted by mark
Lots of folks run into trouble when they modify the mounts at one end of their drive train without making a similar adjustment at the other end. For example, running poly mounts at the engine with a tired old tranny mount allows for more movement at the tranny then engine. This causes the engine mounts to absorb all the torque, rather than splitting it evenly, causing broken motor mounts or cracks where you don’t want them.
The key is balance. So if you chain the engine down, you might want to consider an outrigger on the tranny with a chain that limits it too.
-Mark