Damn I wanna wheel

Violentv8toy · 10-09-2003, 09:26 PM

Yeah i was looking at the toyota axle under his 4runner and it is harder to do than a domestic axle, but once you think about it, its kind of the only way to do it since he doesnt want to drop the front and the all pros have already settled. Cutting and turning 10 degrees should take away all his vibes. I'll probably have the same problem when i put on my front shaft since my truck is so damn high.

**CRaSHnBuRN** · 10-09-2003, 09:48 PM

Don't you have those long shackles in the front? Maybe shorten them some, should help the hieght and the pinion angle. Then get a set of steel shims, and put them on for a little more. Also , try taking out the bottom leaf from the spring pack, should lower it a little more. I'll most likely be removing one or two once I get the truck rebuilt.

I still say you should call jess at High Angle. Everyone swore I would need dual cases or a high pinion to keep the vibs down when I first built my truck. I decided to try and get by (okay I was broke) without it. Jesse cranked one out for me, and it gave me no vibs at low speeds. Then one cold ass night I threw my rear driveshaft an hour from home. So I drove home in front wheel drive. The DS made a little noise but didn't vibrate much at all, even when I hit speeds over 55mph. Now that I have dual cases, I had Jess lengthen it, and it just happens to work in the front or the rear. Hell, I drove to mason on that thing. its a little noisy at times, but no problems other than that

**8Runner** · 10-10-2003, 09:47 AM

Cutting & Turning the front axle will also be a $1000 2 week job as I have to send it off to get it done. From what I understand it is fairly difficult to get everything to line up right and must be done on a special jig. To lessen downtime, I may even get a new toy axle & have it turned, if I do have to go this route.

I do not have an easy way to lower the front end as I do the back. No long shackles. Only way to lower the front end is swap springs or cut & make new mounts.

I am going to call Jess at Highangle to see if anything can be done w/ out cutting & turning or dropping the front end. It is close to working now. Anybody have his contact infor wor website?

**Doug Krebs** · 10-10-2003, 10:02 AM

Originally posted by 8Runner
Cutting & Turning the front axle will also be a $1000 2 week job as I have to send it off to get it done. From what I understand it is fairly difficult to get everything to line up right and must be done on a special jig. To lessen downtime, I may even get a new toy axle & have it turned, if I do have to go this route.

That is really expensive, where did you get that qoute???

TXsizeK5 · 10-10-2003, 10:16 AM

www.highangledriveline.com

Jess' e-mail: FORWHLR@SABER.NET

Phone number: 530-877-2875

**8Runner** · 10-10-2003, 10:17 AM

That's a ballpark. The cutting & turning itself will only be $200-$300 + shipping. Before this though, I will need to remove everything and sandblast it. That is the labor intensive part and Will be $500 or so including putting it back on, unless I do it on this side with some of ya'lls help. Problem is this is my daily driver so I can't really afford to have it sit in my driveway. That means I most likely will have CAC do most of the work, as always.

Alternatively, I may be buying a new tow vehicle truck in the next few months, so this would allow me to have the truck sitting around for a bit longer.

**Doug Krebs** · 10-10-2003, 10:42 AM

The place that did my gears in houston 3 years ago said they cut and turned axles for $75 a side or maybe it was shortening. Anyways, you might give them a call. Texas Auto Gear and it was on west carby i think... I'll try to find more info on them.

Violentv8toy · 10-10-2003, 12:55 PM

Lets see what this results in. Could become a popular thread....

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...hreadid=184244

**Doug Krebs** · 10-10-2003, 01:12 PM

That looks pretty easy to do Chris, maybe a weekend job. I'd help you, but all my equipment is 2 hours from college station since I graduated.

**8Runner** · 10-10-2003, 02:40 PM

This article is awesome (found it on the thread you suggested, Mario)

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/rotated_housing/

I think Lance & I could do this over the course of a couple days for relatively cheap. Unless someone in the club has the equipment & welding skills and wants to do it for beer one weekend, I will probably have Lance do it. A little pricier but I think he could do it over the course of a few days. Maybe he will do it on the cheap if I help him do it one Saturday.

**8Runner** · 10-10-2003, 02:42 PM

Hey Mario,
Since you are the master of searching over on Pirate, have you seen any pictures of core support trimming that I can take a look at?

Violentv8toy · 10-10-2003, 02:56 PM

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...radiator+mount

Theres a good thread that was started earlier this month. Its got some decent pictures. I like th way that the L-brackets were used. Mine are mounted on the front lip. Those are mounted on the back lip....making that radiator about 3-3.5" further forward.

Violentv8toy · 10-10-2003, 02:57 PM

jhama

**Doug Krebs** · 10-10-2003, 02:59 PM

Originally posted by 8Runner
This article is awesome (found it on the thread you suggested, Mario)

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/rotated_housing/

I think Lance & I could do this over the course of a couple days for relatively cheap. Unless someone in the club has the equipment & welding skills and wants to do it for beer one weekend, I will probably have Lance do it. A little pricier but I think he could do it over the course of a few days. Maybe he will do it on the cheap if I help him do it one Saturday.

I'd help you, but we'd have to find a free weekend for the both of us and as I said before it's 2 hours from college station.

Violentv8toy · 10-10-2003, 03:03 PM

I really suggest that you tear down the front almost completely like this and move it forward as much as possible.

Also, another tek tip:

Make a box frame of good thickish wood that is the size of the cooling area on the speedway radiator and put a back on it and cut out a hole like a speaker box that is missing a broad side. Cut out the taurus fan and put it in the hole and drill it to the box. Cover it with tape, then coat it in fiberglass hard stuff. Let it dry for a day and it makes a really kickass shroud. Then put L brackets on it to mount it to the radiator and get some more L brakets and mount it wherever you want.

EDIT: this in effect will cut down on the thickness ~4" of the taurus fan and will force air through your radiator.

that SHOULD cool it no matter what speed you're at.

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