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Thread: Chevy Spring Swap

  1. #106
    Registered User uglyota's Avatar
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    How about some close-ups of the spring hangers, shackle hangers, dimensions, what you decided to do about brake lines, ubolts, plates, shims for pinion angle, etc?

    Yes hi-lifts go down fast when you unweight them.

    Why don't you take the chevy overloads off, or flip and cut the back off of them before you tear up your shackles?
    Quote Originally Posted by Shaggy View Post
    damnit... if everyone is leaving i want my original 15 back... i dont wanna be left with these tools

  2. #107
    TRDyota
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    I kinda wanna keep the overloads. The springs are soft enough that they will touch with enough weight. I will get some pics of my breaklines, cause I did have to rig them up a bit. I can drill these shackles and move them up without having to cut the ends off (right?) so I can adjust the height if I need to. Shims aren't needed with an 8" (hole to hole) shackle, but they will be needed when I shorten the hole distance. U-bolts were easy, just had to fab some spring plates. Bought the 1/2" u-bolts from advance auto parts for 5 each. And just a tip for drilling spring plates: MEASURE 4 TIMES, then cut them...not that I made that mistake or anything...

    EDIT: And we had to do some, as you say, "ugly fabbing", or as Mario says "aggie engineering" to get the shackles to work. I gotta run, so I will take pics and explain why later.

  3. #108
    Violentv8toy
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    Originally posted by TRDyota
    And just a tip for drilling spring plates: MEASURE 4 TIMES, then cut them...not that I made that mistake or anything...
    I'd go as far as saying 5 times for you brandon.

  4. #109
    True Hollywood Stry
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    dang brandon drill them shackle holes quick i saw that bad boy in the parking garage today and all i can say is **** you could run like 40 's in the back and the front is quished down tigher than a tin can ***.
    He who dies with the most **** wins, after seeing your collection you are in the lead no doubt!

  5. #110
    TRDyota
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    Maybe I can do them tomorrow. Either way, a solution is needed asap.

  6. #111
    TRDyota
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    Just bought shocks.

    Rear Rancho 5000's : $37.99 ea., $3 for S&H
    Bilstein HD's for Front: $75.99 ea., $6 for S&H

    Should be hear round Monday. Now I am flat broke. Spent bout everything I got. Shocks were more expensive than any of the lifts I put on (counting front and back separately). Picking up the front lift coils next friday from home. Probably won't have time to finish the front before finals, but at least I can get some shocks on the rear.

  7. #112
    TRDyota
    Guest
    Before the meeting tonight, I picked up James from his room. Some of the guys out front started laughing at my truck saying that it looked like some fat girls had been sitting on my front bumper. Real funny. Anyways, so I jacked up my truck at Mario's and took the shackles off. After the meeting, Chadnutz took me out to Riverside and I drilled the holes in the shackles about 2.5" lower. Overall it brought the rear of the truck down about 1.75-2", and now the shackles are at a 45 degree angle.

    Now, after lowering the rear shackles, the need for shims is becoming apparent. The axle has moved back a little in the wheel well, and the drive shaft has started to slip out about a quarter inch. Shims should kick the axle forward some, fix the driveshaft, and improve the angle between the pinion flange and the t-case.

    Thanks to FTAco07 and Chadnutz for their help tonight, as well as Mario and Bubba. The rear looks a lot better now. If I park on slight inclines, it almost looks normal...

  8. #113
    No progress... bburris's Avatar
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    Are you getting the front done to match next weekend?

  9. #114
    TRDyota
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    I will be driving to Houston to take a bunch of stuff home in order to make moving out easier, then I have to work a lot. But I will pick up the coils and bring them back. The Bilstein HD Struts should be there too. However, I don't know if I will be able to install everything here because of finals and everything.

    Also, I am going to need a coil depresser. Does anyone have one, or know of a place that lets you "rent" them? I think autozone might.

  10. #115
    Ben97XJ
    Guest
    Autozone has them. Don't use coil compressors use strut compressors. Trust me!

  11. #116
    TRDyota
    Guest
    Originally posted by uglyota
    How about some close-ups of the spring hangers, shackle hangers, dimensions, what you decided to do about brake lines, ubolts, plates, shims for pinion angle, etc?
    This is the best I can do right now for the brakelines. If you can see in the top left corner, the untouched brakeline has some slack in it. I just had to bend that stuff all down so that it could stretch down more.

    As for the line running to the electric locker, It just had one little bolt keeping it tight, so it now hangs free.

    Same with whatever that brake-fluid-distrubutor-sensor-thingy, or whatever that is on my axle that has something to do with breaks. It just had one bolt, and it is now unbolted and hanging free. Is that bad? Do I need to extend whatever that line is? Cause as of right now it is totally disassembled.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  12. #117
    TRDyota
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    Sorry for the bad pic Eric, I'll get you some better ones, as well as some spring plates, hangers, shackles, etc.

  13. #118
    Registered User uglyota's Avatar
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    not for me...for posterity

    the hangy-down brake adjuster thing is your Load Sensing Proportioning Valve (LSPV), which makes your rear brakes work better when you have a heavy load. You can adjust where it's connected by changing the lower (axle) attachment point the amount that you lifted it, or you can just zip tie it up and out of the way, and you'll always have more braking in the rear.
    Quote Originally Posted by Shaggy View Post
    damnit... if everyone is leaving i want my original 15 back... i dont wanna be left with these tools

  14. #119
    TRDyota
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    First of all, if I just ignore the LSPV, will it go away? J/k. But seriously, is it gonna screw me over if I just leave it be? Or should I just bite the bullet and take the time/energy to ghetto-rig something up?

  15. #120
    Violentv8toy
    Guest
    tie it all the way up....call it done. only thing it can do is give you more fluid to the rear

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