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Thread: kickass scout motor

  1. #31
    D-FENS agjohn02's Avatar
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    MILLER TIME BABY!!!
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  2. #32
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    Hmm, lots of good jeep parts.....































    ...... wasted on a scout.

  3. #33
    D-FENS agjohn02's Avatar
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    hmm, eight, is that name indicative of your desire for more inches or cylinders?


    got the firewall insulation cut to fit today. havent glued it down yet though. now i gotta do the tranny tunnel to finish it out. im thinking about putting a snorkel on the scout. i havent seen one made specifically for scouts and there probably is no such thing, but im pretty sure i can find one that will work. i do not plan on doing much high water crossing, only if absolutely neccesary, i just want cold air intake. im planning out a cowl induction system for the scout that would draw air from the cowl vent, but i think a snorkel would be easier. it would be very tomb raiderish. over kill?
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  4. #34
    D-FENS agjohn02's Avatar
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    ok, only two weeks later and i finally got time to finish up the insulation. cross your fingers and hope it all stays stuck. next, on to the dana 300 rebuild. i got my rebuild kit from advance adapters this week and can finally get started on it. anyone rebuilt one before? do you need a press to get bearings and such off and on? or will a deadblow hammer and a couple 2x4's suffice?
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  5. #35
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    The hammer and 2x4 method should work. I use oak. A few sizes of chisel and some sizes of plate can also be helpful.

    And eight is just because that's what my jeep is. I need not more inches or cylinders.

  6. #36
    D-FENS agjohn02's Avatar
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    got the t-case apart with the exception of the rear output shaft. ill have to get it pressed out as i havent a press or funky log jawed gear puller. the hammer and 2x4 method worked quite well. i found white pine to meet my needs. however you do need a couple sizes of gear puller for a couple bearings. you can see them in the pic.
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  7. #37
    D-FENS agjohn02's Avatar
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    here's the culprit. big gear wont come off until bearing is off and big gear wont fit throught hole in case. this is like the mother of all jigsaw puzzles. guess it'll have to wait till next week, cuz i aint got time to get it done on tuesday and ill be outta town the rest of the week for an interview. also, i need 1310 cv yokes for this case front and rear. will atlas yokes work? 29 spline i think but i cant remember for sure. or does anybody know a better place to get em?
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  8. #38
    D-FENS agjohn02's Avatar
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    more parts and little progress to post. if you wanna see my progress, go to the dana 300 output shaft wanted post. that about sums up my progress, i had to take breather after screwing that pooch. anyways got my shocks and underhood a/c stuff from the big brown truck today. rancho rs 5012 and 5010 long travels and camaro a/c stuff for the lt1. dont really know what my next step is now. whatever i feel like working on next i guess. frame bracing under the steering box, engine gasket kit and completion of tcase rebuild are the options. i decided to forgo the cam swap for now. at least until i get some money for the ecm re-program and gas prices drop.
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  9. #39
    D-FENS agjohn02's Avatar
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    back on track

    about a week after my last post i sprained the crap outta my right ankle and have been crippled ever since. ive gotten some work done though. frame is braced under the steering box, sprayed the frame with rubber undercoating except where i have to weld stuff. got the t-case rebuilt with the exception of yokes and endplay settings. got the power booster, painted it and put that stuff together. looking for a new inner fender, mine was held together by rust.
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  10. #40
    D-FENS agjohn02's Avatar
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    just a little more detail on how i re-enforced the frame under the steering box. 3/16" plate inside, outside, and bottom. there wasnt enough room between the box and frame to do it on top. pics arent the clearest, but they give you the idea.
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  11. #41
    Registered User uglyota's Avatar
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    you know that if you "fishmouthed" the leading and trailing edges of the plate it would be stronger?
    Quote Originally Posted by Shaggy View Post
    damnit... if everyone is leaving i want my original 15 back... i dont wanna be left with these tools

  12. #42
    D-FENS agjohn02's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by uglyota
    you know that if you "fishmouthed" the leading and trailing edges of the plate it would be stronger?

    i dont understand, explain. you mean because there is more weld length?

  13. #43
    Registered User uglyota's Avatar
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    I think it has more to do with not concentrating your heat on a small cross-section of the frame. If the frame is losing strength in the HAZ, you want the weakness to be dispersed over a longer area that is not so easily bent and broken.
    I don't think I explained that very well...
    Quote Originally Posted by Shaggy View Post
    damnit... if everyone is leaving i want my original 15 back... i dont wanna be left with these tools

  14. #44
    ^TAMOR NORTH^ Graystroke's Avatar
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    it's generally not a good idea to weld straight across a frame. I think it also depends on the load. in this case it would be a side load from the steering box so a fish mouth would be a good idea.

  15. #45
    Once was lost... BMFScout's Avatar
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    i know for a fact they do it a **** ton in airframe applications, but that is with tubing mostly, and the other place I saw it done was anything st.john does, and he does some cool ****.
    Boats and hoes

    Stumble in to the liquor store
    With a dollar-fifty for a bottle of wine,
    I know just what I'm lookin for
    Thunderbird will do just fine.

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