in that case, I hope trailside repairs make you hard too!
in that case, I hope trailside repairs make you hard too!
Originally Posted by Shaggy
i was kidding. its like 1/4" or so.
fap fap fap!
progress as of 2:19am on thursday...
got the drivers side knuckle-out put together after i found the shaft yesterday. new headers came in today and, this time, the drivers side fit well and the passenger side didnt. it hit the firewall. i was tired of doing the header shuffle and liked the way these were tucked up out of the way, so i commenced to beating it into submission. this didnt do the trick so i got a little carried away and took the sawzall to it. first a little, then a lot. never thought my rustfree scout would see a sawzall, but here it is. by the time i was done cutting i thought id really screwed up and was kicking myself. anyways, i fitted a peice of sheet and busted the tig back out and went to welding. since my sheet metal tig skillz suck, i soon tired of this and decided to try the same power setting, except with a 6011. worked nicely. now i can add sheet metal stick welder to my resume.
well, off to get a new can of grizzly wintergreen and keep at it.
you lookum pictures here:
fancy
Very nice work indeed
looking good :bigthumb:
this is pretty much a sympathy post for myself to make me feel a little better since im bummed about not making it to clayton.
today got the new rear cv shaft, its 2" OD and .120 wall. and mocked up the steering. the tie rod and drag link are 1.25"x .281" wall DOM. im gonna send the drivers side arm back and get another that is tapered properly. ill have to bend them both up a little. no problem since there are several good fab shops with huge breaks locally. other than that its going pretty well. ya'll have fun in clayton and i might see you there, but with no rig of my own.
Last edited by agjohn02; 12-17-2004 at 10:43 PM.
so , took a little break this weekend after an ill-fated hard push last week. all i got done was some misc. painting (just ask austin, i like to paint things), some wiring done and the rear driveshaft bolted in. dont hold me to it, but theres a chance this thing could be driveable by the end of the week.
ill include a pic to make this post a little more interesting...
got the front d-shaft in today. highangle cv longtravel. since the front is reverse shackle it needs the added slip. i also found a use for one of my shock boots since the boot jesse puts on em only has about 3 inches of stretch in it. i flexed her out a little to see how the shaft would clear my pan since its bigger than the old cv i test fitted. its close but, well, i dunno. im gonna try it. if it doesnt clear at full stuff then ill figure something else out.
wheres a good place to set the front bumpstops? when the spring goes flat? this will keep the springs from sagging quickly, but will it limit my wheel stuff too much?
when they go flat. If you get the right kind of bumpstops....they'll compress another 2-3".
Set bumpstops so the tires no rub fenders and shocks don't bottom out. That whole negative arch destroys springs thing is BS.
he no gotum mil-wraps
bumpstops? we don't need no stinking bumpstops...
plenty of shock travel, and no rub-em fenders, so no need right?
Boats and hoes
Stumble in to the liquor store
With a dollar-fifty for a bottle of wine,
I know just what I'm lookin for
Thunderbird will do just fine.
well... if i dont use bumps i know the front driveshaft will get into the tranny pan as it is now and im pretty sure the d-side spring will hit the tre on the pitman arm when that side is stuffed. ill get it assembled and flex it with the forklift this week and decide then.
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