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Thread: Dana 44's

  1. #46
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    Yes you can get a tractor PTO shaft at TSC for about $100. And they do have 2 feet of travel or more sometimes. They don't have any slop in them either. TSC also sells the same splined stock that most bought high travel shafts use. Its about a 1.5" 20 spline shaft and they have the woman ends too. Still cost about the same as the pto shaft though.

  2. #47
    Mud King
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    There's no way in hell i would spend that much money on a drive shaft i meant that i would get that style of drive shaft made. Ive seen those shafts at tsc and often wondered about them, sounds like a really good idea. Im gonna go with the 44044's just need to find some cheap ones. Need to start obtaining all the little detail parts cuz plan on doing this within the next couple of weeks. Ordering my flat top knuckles with highsteer arms pretty soon and gonna start reassemblying the axle.

  3. #48
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    What you gonna do for a tie rod and drag link? If you want to go with heims I suggest the 122-XMR10-12 and 122-XML10-12 from jegs. I used the 3/4x3/4 ones on mine and they run out of misalignment on the drag link.

  4. #49
    Mud King
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    See my plan was to go highsteer and use the factory tie rod that came with the axle and then get a draglink made with heim joints. But then i discovered the reverse highsteer arms where they run the tie rod in the back of the axle and run the draglink in the front i really like this idea, so im leaning towords this right now, but dont know.

  5. #50
    Mud King
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    These are the arms that im thinkin about running.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  6. #51
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    Why would you want to run the arms in back? You might end up with clearance problems between the tie rod and the motor then, just something to check on before ordering.

    Other little things would include brake lines. You should be able to find a few places in houston that can custum build you some as you wait. Cause that's kind of a thing you have to do after the axle is in.

  7. #52
    Mud King
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    Yeah i thought about the brake lines but i dont know how long to get them, it just seems that everything i need has to be gotten once the axle is in there. The reason i wanted to run the tierod in the rear is that im concerned that the draglink will interfere with the tie rod in the front, or i could just run the inverted T style steering where the drag link connects to the highsteer tie rod. I want to choose the right steering setup the first time so i can go ahead and order my highsteer arms but am also in debate to go with al new tierods and draglinks with heim joints but am thinking that will be too expensive? How much does custom tierods and draglinks run or would it be cheaper to just make them myself with DOM and weldin inserts and such?

  8. #53
    No progress... bburris's Avatar
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    It's cheaper to make it yourself. Read around in the 18 steering threads we've had on here to figure out what materials you want to use. If you're going to buy high steer arms why would you run an inverted Y setup? Just buy some Shakerbuilt or similar arms and run them. They're made for what you're trying to do and you shouldn't have problems with them.

  9. #54
    Mud King
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    Started reassembling the axle today and found that the passenger hubs splines are blown so i need a new passenger side hub for 85 Waggy, anybody know of where i could find one of them for cheap. Also wheres a good place to get cheap shackles and like CJ shackle hangers? Thanks Also went ahead and got the 44044's got a deal through a guy at 4wpw for 115 a peice so went with it and they got em to my house the next day, very impressed with the springs and 4wpw.

  10. #55
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    Don't get CJ front shackel hangers, they're too skinny. CJ rear ones or YJ ones will work.
    Last edited by eight; 06-15-2004 at 12:20 PM.

  11. #56
    D-FENS agjohn02's Avatar
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    back to driveshafts. went to tsc today and checked out the pto shafts. $100 will get you half of a shaft. for the whole thing its upwards of $220. that was for the square ones. the spline stock didnt have a price on it and i didnt feel ike lugging the sucker to the front of the store (very beefy) but im sure its more. so, you're getting into the custom driveshaft price range. i dont know how yoke size is denoted but the numbers didnt resemble 1310 at all. not worth it i dont think.

  12. #57
    Mud King
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    Im thinkin about buying the sky hysteer arms but im concerned that they may interfere with the tire or rim because these arms dont taper in at the ends, they are just straight arms. I really like these arms and price but am concerned about the the taper thing do you guys think that the tire interference would be a problem at all?

  13. #58
    Violentv8toy
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    it won't unless you've got some odd backspacing on your wheels.

  14. #59
    TAMOR Obsession Chadnutz's Avatar
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    Cody makes nice shafts but you have to supply the materials and I think I spent around $75 for the Toy shafts.


  15. #60
    Mud King
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    For the rod ends i know you need left and right rod ends for the tie rod but do you have to have left and right for the drag link, im assuming yes to make it work. If this is true i would need two left hand and two right hand rod ends total correct? Going with the 122-XMR10-12 AND 122-XML10-12 rod ends seems like the best choice.

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