that will bolt to the spindles. do you think i'll have enough clearance. it looks as though the tie rod's hole is right on top of where the stock drag link mounts to the stock tie rod
edit: i mean knuckle
that will bolt to the spindles. do you think i'll have enough clearance. it looks as though the tie rod's hole is right on top of where the stock drag link mounts to the stock tie rod
edit: i mean knuckle
Last edited by Moose; 11-18-2004 at 01:41 PM.
one that is part of the knuckle and not the spindle, you can build a steering setup like austins, chadnutz, and mud king, with heims, and dom or something that is stronger, and will also give you a much better angle since you flip it on top of the where it is now and that will give you a better steering to.
He who dies with the most **** wins, after seeing your collection you are in the lead no doubt!
that's was my original intention was. but my questions are 1) do i have clearance in front of the front shock mount for the drag link with the cycle of the pitman arm, and 2) if so, where the hell do you find this dom tubing. i've tried nearly all the large stock yards and no body has anything i need. i'm looking for 1.5" od, 1/2" id tubing, 1-piece: 55" (tie rod), 1-piece: appr 46" (drag link, but i have to make sure the pitman arm is centered lock to lock first), 4-heims like (http://bulletproofsteering.com/rodendspecs.html) 4130, 28,000psi. and i definitely don't have clearance to mount the tie rod on top of the knuckles.
Last edited by Moose; 09-22-2004 at 07:24 AM.
DOM's not needed. Only people on here that will argue it is never wheel. And you're not gonna find 1.5", .5 wall anyway. Just go with some 1 1/4" sch 80 pipe. Use some of the weld in bungs, and get some heims from Jegs, the ones that cost about $30. Or buy those I linked here.
I wheel and I use 1.5 by .5 wall
not the heim joints, the drag link. i'm asking, at full lock towards the passenger side knuckle, will that front/lower shock mount interfere with the drag link. because the drag link end of the pitman arm will be inline, if not behind the steering box end of the pitman arm at full lock towards the passenger side knuckle. i've already gotten on my knees, tied a string line, etc. i just need additional visual inspection, hence, the picture.Originally Posted by uglyota
Last edited by Moose; 09-22-2004 at 11:39 AM.
i am not sure what you are saying about rubbing i guess it s cause you have dual shocks on both sides, but if it wouldnt rub on the driver side it isnt gonna rub on the passenger side either you shouldnt have any problem with not enough space or anything.
He who dies with the most **** wins, after seeing your collection you are in the lead no doubt!
i don't know how much more clear i can make it?
Okay I see...you just want a second opinion. My opinion is no it won't interfere, and if it does, trim that sharp corner off the shock mount, and if it still does, cut the front lower passenger side shock mount off, cut the front upper passenger side shock mount off, go to the other side, cut those front shock mounts off, take the rear shocks off both sides, sell all that mess on ebay and spend some coin on single bilsteins or rancho 9000s. You'll be much happier.
(I hope you know I'm just messin with you bustin your balls, but this is really what you should do )
halleluea (sp?).
seriously, that's [nearly] exactly what i was thinking. thanks for the input. i've had to run with single shocks in the front with this thing; it's fun! and i think your right about the pitman arm not cycling more than 180. i should have cycled it at home before i asked. but before i spend any money, i was just asking. those long travel shocks will be one of the many projects after i fix the overheating problem, the paint problem, and the driveshaft, axleshaft, gears, and locker problem. i was wondering if i did, i'd put a 14* bend on the bar on the pass side, but i really don't want to do that. thanks again.
Last edited by Moose; 11-18-2004 at 01:45 PM.
yea, that too.