Mandi's YJ thread

[Cody_91YJ]

Brett hit everything pretty much right on the head. Not bad for a TJ guy

A SOA with stock springs should be just about right for 33s, around 5-5.5".
I ran 5" back in the day with 33s and that worked out pretty well. An SOA with stock springs is not to much lift for 33s. I had to go with TJ flares and used a cut down 3" BL to clear 35s (also have a couple extra leaves in the spring packs)

Having run an SUA for 2 years, and an SOA for almost 3...a SOA done right is definately the way to go IMO...Rides better, flexes better, etc...wish I would have gone that route right from the start. I've never really had any death wobble, and I usually drive it 300 miles at 75-80mph once a semester just to get home...and to Katemcy several times, and it handles fine at highway speeds

Like Brett said, you should do a SYE at the same time. I've seen people skip that step and get away with it for a little while...but I definately wouldn't recommend it.

I also trashed the front sway & track bars a looonnnggg time ago. But Disconnects wouldn't be a bad idea. The only other thing I can think of is that if you get alot of axle wrap in the rear, it might be worth looking into a traction bar or similar setup, but you'll probably be fine. Oh, and don't forget the brake line extensions

I just finished my 3rd test this week and my brain is fried. If you have more questions I'll see what I can come up with

[Ben97XJ]

Don't let anybody tell you the Hack in tap suck. The RE hack and tap is what me and conlee both run. Its cheap and easy not hard to do at all. Most aftermarket kits are just a cut down stock shaft anyway except for the $$$ ones which are a little beefier.

[robertf03]

Don't let anybody tell you the Hack in tap suck. The RE hack and tap is what me and conlee both run. Its cheap and easy not hard to do at all. Most aftermarket kits are just a cut down stock shaft anyway except for the $$$ ones which are a little beefier.

32 spline sye's have gotten so cheap in the past year that I think its worth it to run a regular cv yoke driveshaft than have to get one with that flange deal.

then you can run a cut down wagoneer/cherokee/gm front cv driveshaft

just don't get the advanced adapters kit. it has some fitment issues on older YJ's.

[bburris]

From her signature, she has a '95 so the AA kit should be fine... I'd run the JB Conversions if I had a choice though.

[redcagepatrol]

Just don't let Scott set your pinion angle.

You'll need a slip yoke eliminator. I'd say avoid the hack and tap kinds

I set the angles just fine - as long as you put oil in it. I can't maintain everones truck...

I've done / helped with 4 springovers - we got them down to 6.5hrs from the time we pulled the jack out to the time we drive it out. That's with making the spring perches and fabbing up shock mounts.
Lynda, Suzie, Bobby, and Wyatt.

You can do a spring over for next to nothing as long as you know how to weld and have some steel around. The only thing that you really need to buy is a dropped pitman arm - with the SYE soon after.

SYE: I have done the hack and tap kinds, and the shaft replacement kinds. They both work the same - I like flanges and Tom Woods had a pretty good deal with his kit. It was like $410 after shipping with a new driveshaft.

I would suggest longer brake lines and a new steering stabilizer though.

Death wobbles come and go as steering parts wear out and get replaced - on the Jeeps, on my Dodge, on any Dodge product... Bump steer will depend on the steering stabilizer and dropped pitman arm. Swaying will depend on the shock placement.

[Matt Conlee]

Yes like ben said hack and tap kits are the ****. Troy even had the hack and tap before his 300 and not even he could manage to break it and I think that says alot.
I do think the hack and tap for a YJ cost a little more money and the kits a little different.

[redcagepatrol]

Yes like ben said hack and tap kits are the ****. Troy even had the hack and tap before his 300 and not even he could manage to break it and I think that says alot.
I do think the hack and tap for a YJ cost a little more money and the kits a little different.

anything that keeps you from having to pull that stupid case apart and dealing with that stupid chain is a good idea in my book. They use like super glue RTV on those things from the factory and they never seal back up right - scraping and cleaning all the surfaces, getting the chain back on - it all just sucks...

[bburris]

NP231s are super simple. It takes all of an hour to pull one apart, drink a beer, then about another hour to put it all back together...

It must be a Jeep thing Scott.

[JeepsterJayson]

I found the shock adapter from JKS.

http://www.jksmfg.com/shock_conversions.htm

I thought they were cheaper than $35. If you want to eliminate the stud style shock in the front for better flex they help and shocks are cheaper with the eye hole loop.

Here is a 95 SOA with price list.

http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/soa.htm

[hotshot14]

and I usually drive it 300 miles at 75-80mph once a semester just to get home...and to Katemcy several times, and it handles fine at highway speeds

well my little four banger won't be able to do that, maybe i should spend money on a bigger engine and a radio or somethin...

[bburris]

If you have 4.10s and 33s you'll still be able to pull 65-70 on the highway. It won't be a speed demon, but I drove the hell out of mine like that for quite a while. With 4.56s and 36s now I hit 80 with a nice tail wind...

[Lynda]

You can also kiss 5th gear goodbye and don't even try to enter a freeway with your air conditioner on Anymore I just hang out in the right lane and wave at everyone passing me on the left