Originally Posted by Doug Krebs
referring back to this... i am dumb and didnt know i had to do some grinding on the shift rail... so i am about to do this... shouldnt take too long... found a damn good webpage describing how to do it
http://ivanribic.clubfte.com/page2.html
ok i got it all grinded and back together... i cant tell what is high and low range but i can put it in front wheel drive so i guess it is right
i got the washers inbetween the tcase and bushings... looks better now... running to the ford house to get some ujoint straps for a 10.25 and then shortening a couple driveshafts.... does anyone have a thin walled 1" 5/16 socket i can use to put on the front yoak... it is just finger tight right now and i dont have a socket for it
I got a 1 5/16" socket, dunno if it is thin enough, but you can try it. I'm at the house.
92 YJ
04 F-150 4x4
11 F-250 4x4
tate where the hell do you live now? Still on richards? I drove down the street and couldn't remember which one was yours, but I didn't see the bronco frame or your truck. The bronco frame looks like it's outside in pictures?
1988 Blazer...RIP
i still live on richards... the bronco is in the garage... and i was at the parts store probably... finding a ujoint for the rear axle was a pita... there was one in the bryan hoe ryleys... and my spare will be in the cs store tomorrow
now that i have all the proper u-joints and u-joint straps... it is time to shorten a couple driveshafts... hope i can get them done before the woman gets off work... she doesnt like me to only come in to eat dinner.... on a side note i cant remember the last time i cooked or ate out... i got a good woman
when shortening a driveshaft what is easier...
a) cutting driveshaft at stock weld trim it and weld back up there
or
b) cutting driveshaft in the center trim it and sleve it with smaller tube)
Id Say Cut And Sleeve....but What Do I Know...
Steven W
02 Dodge 2500
82 CJ-7 - sitting in a field...
"....Your theory is f*cked up like a football bat...."
I think people usually cut at the weld, but I've never actually done it...
Where's the Pollock?
the first pic is of a fubared piece of my press... that should be not be bent... the second is of the front driveshaft in... the third is a pic of the driveshaft rubbing... afraid it wont work... and there isnt room for a cv shaft so i dunno what to do
you could always build a two peice front shaft with a pillow block so that you will have room for a CV
Creighton, you have done stuff with that jeep that would make a goat go "holy ****!"
I vote for clocking the 205 to get it away from the pan. Might require some crossmember modifications though. That driveshaft angle looks too steep for a regular joint so me thinks a CV is in order.
On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"
im not clocking it... i dont want it any lower..
also i dont know what is ment by a pillow block... i dont think there is enough room for a 2 piece shaft... it is only 29" long
I think he means a carrier bearing... but I think a CV is your best bet.
What series u-joint is that? If it's not a 1310 you might try to find measurements to see if a 1310 flange would work in place of that yoke, then run a 1310 CV front.
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