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Thread: 350 rebuild kits?

  1. #16
    lo veo TxCruzr's Avatar
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    The heads are necessary. Just depends if you want a little more compression or not. You probably wouldn't be able to tell a big difference in low gear.
    Your intake and headers should still bolt up...not 100% sure though.
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  2. #17
    Tommy sucks Sharpe's Avatar
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    Oops you're right, vortecs are iron. Oh well that just means they're uber-well engineered to have that high compression and still run on 87 octane. I was planning on going with a kit Scoggins Dickey offers that has the vortec heads and the GM performance Parts intake (GM is the only company that makes ANY intake to fit TBI and Vortec heads) for right around ~$1k. Later on, I am going to upgrade exhaust to Headers by Doug Tri-Y's and duals all the way back, then some TBI upgrades. I'm shooting for around 400 HP, very attainable from a smallblock for not too much dinero.
    On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"

  3. #18
    Teaching America's youth RCcola55's Avatar
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    the key to building a purpose engine, is finding the power band u want then matching the parts that will make that happen. for instense if u want an engine with a lot of bottom end power and torque dont go for the big lift cams with a lot of duration or heads with huge valves and tiny combustion chambers. when u go to buy ur parts talk to a sales rep that has engine building experience and get him to match u a cam and head combination, edelbrock makes several "Power Packages" to choose from, just order one of there cataloges and check them out. when it comes to cam try to go with one that has about 204*@.50" intake 216*@.50" exhaust and about .427"/.454" lift, and heads dont let the intake valves be much more the 2.00" or u could lose bottom end power, these numbers are for most S.B. motors both ford and chevy and will give u great power between idle and 4500 rpms
    Ryan Clarke
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  4. #19
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    http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/Cyli...ds/Vortec.html

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    All the info. you could ever want to know about vortec heads. There are a number of different casting #'s. You want the 10239906 and 12558062. As far as the intake, special ones are needed all the part #'s for everything you need are listed on that website. Like I said you can pick up a set on ebay for like $300-400. If you are looking at a $1000 rebuild you might be hard pressed to get the heads and still get the whole rebuild in under that #.

    Edit: it says inthe article that 10239906's are to be avoided but those are the ones I've always heard everyone wanting.
    Last edited by jerryg79; 10-19-2004 at 11:32 PM.
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  5. #20
    BigRedFord04
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    edebrock performer....as in....carbuerator intake? WTF? if you're going to build an engine for crawling for jebus sake put some fukking fuel injection on it. spend less on the guts if you have to...a plain jane stock 350 is more than enough to throw a toyota around....if you can keep it running on an incline.

  6. #21
    Tommy sucks Sharpe's Avatar
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    The $1k price was just for the head and intake kit. I already have a 355 shortblock assembled and ready to go. The ones Scoggins Dickey sell come completely assembled with quality parts, and you can get them with stouter valvetrains if you intend to run more lift. I'm just choosing SD because I've dealt with them before, they have good parts and awsome customer service.
    On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"

  7. #22
    Teaching America's youth RCcola55's Avatar
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    edelbrock makes kits for all fuel injected motors including tbi, besides they basicly consist of heads, cam & lifters, and timing components
    Ryan Clarke
    (214)695-7901

  8. #23
    BigRedFord04
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    useless clarification....

    he's running a carb now. i'd generally assume that since he wants to use the same intake, he probably was thinking about putting it back on. just saying thats a bad idea.

    btw...you'd be better off with a single plane intake than that dual plane performer.

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by afroman006
    The $1k price was just for the head and intake kit. I already have a 355 shortblock assembled and ready to go. The ones Scoggins Dickey sell come completely assembled with quality parts, and you can get them with stouter valvetrains if you intend to run more lift. I'm just choosing SD because I've dealt with them before, they have good parts and awsome customer service.
    I was referring to Mario's $1000 budget, seeing as this is his thread
    Quote Originally Posted by Graystroke View Post
    So you loose, I win!

  10. #25
    Violentv8toy
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    talk about whatever, its everyones thread, as long as it pertains to a smallblock.

    Yeah, i've got a 1000 budget and im gonna put a carb back on it until i put the TBI on. I'll need a TBI intake.

    EDIT: after reading that, i think vortec heads are out. I'd have to run a vortec intake and go from there.
    Last edited by Violentv8toy; 10-20-2004 at 12:33 AM.

  11. #26
    Tommy sucks Sharpe's Avatar
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    Well there are ALOT of intake options for carbs and Vortec heads out there. Unless you are emotionaly attached to the intake you have, you can sell it on ebay and get another one. Going by your budget I'm gonna say you're probably going to have to stick to stock parts. Get a few good small block building books and find part #'s for the best factory heads for you. Carb'd 350's usually go for $300-400 at junkyards so a decent rotating assembly shouldnt set you back too much. Edelbrock injection and a $1k budget...***, I dont know if they make anything else but the only injection kit I've seen from them is like $1500 alone (but they do offer it for previously carb'd or TBI'd trucks...sweeet).
    On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"

  12. #27
    Hazaa Fredo's Avatar
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    holy ****......where to begin. I'm a bit busy right now at work, but I'll be back to follow up on this.
    "You know, this car is so fast, that giving Corvette owners this car, is kinda like giving an AK-47 to a pysch ward."

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  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fredo
    holy ****......where to begin. I'm a bit busy right now at work, but I'll be back to follow up on this.
    Finally gonna get some real info. I'd like the recipe for Freddy's ultimate TBI injected offroad 350.

  14. #29
    True Hollywood Stry
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    just to give you idea on how much it might cost i spent around 1200-1500 on my rebuild take into affect that sbc parts will be cheaper then fordbb papts, but i got my block bored .030 and got all new everything and had the engine shop that did the boring work assemble the short block and it ran my like 635 for it all ready to go, then i had the heads redone with new valves and that was like another 200 or 225. then i bought the afer market cam and staight up timing set and swapped it out with the stock chain and cam they put in my short block. and to try and prevent other problems i replaced the water pump, and timing chain cover, oil pump. one thingto keep in mind is it seemed to nickle and dime me to death i was shooting for like 1 grand and spent slightly more to get all new parts. hope fred can give you some good info.
    He who dies with the most **** wins, after seeing your collection you are in the lead no doubt!

  15. #30
    Hazaa Fredo's Avatar
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    Ok, here we go.

    As far as rebuilding a smallblock, a $1000 budget is fairly slim. Not to say it can't be done for that, but saying that you aren't going to get the components you might want or you might have to reuse some parts you might not want to.

    Now for a 350 to power a Yota, I wouldn't dump a bunch of High Performance goodies into it because a bone stock smallblock is going to have plenty of power for wheeling.

    Starting with machine work, that is going to be where a good chunk of your budget is going to be blown. Expect to spend anywhere from $500-1200 depending on parts used and whether or not the machine shop does the assembly work. I know you can get out of a machine shop a whole lot cheaper if they don't do the assembly work. But, I wouldn't suggest doing the assembly yourself unless you have done it before or you have the help of someone with a good amount of experience.

    Let's just say you do the cleaning, checking of clearances and end-gap, and the assembly yourself. With vatting and magnafluxing the block, boring the cylinders, line boring the crank journals, new pistons installed on the rods, rod and crank bearings, cam bearings pressed in the block, freeze plugs pressed in the block, heads checked and fluxed, and valve seats reground, you're probably going to get out for $500-600.

    Let's also say you let them assemble it, labor and parts, you aren't getting an assembled long block out of there for under around $950 unless you are slobbin the machinists knob.

    Granted these prices are if you are simply changing pistons, bearings, cam, lifters, valvetrain, valves, gaskets and reusing the exsisting block, heads, rods, and crank. If any of those are messed up, you are going to be spending more obviously.

    Now moving on to what needs to be put in it. Usually, a motor that is up the miles is going to need the block bored and the crank turned. Bsically, most of the time reboring and turning of the crank usually turn out to be a .030 bore, and a .010 under crank. So obviously, you'll need .030 pistons and .010 over bearings.

    As far as what pistons to run, it all depends on what you want and what kind of heads you are running. If you are running stock 1970-90is castings, they will more than likely be 76cc chamber heads, which with flat top pistons will yield around a 8.75-9:1 compression ratio respectively. Now with a dished piston, you're looking at 8.25 to 8.5:1. Now if it has 64cc chamber heads, those numbers change obviously to bring a flatop up to around 10.5:1 and a dished to around 9.25:1. I personally would try to maintain around 8.75 to 9:1 in a mostly stock rebuild with stock heads. It will still make decent power and run cool, even if it is .030 bored over.

    Now on to valvetrain. As far as a camshaft, I wouldn't get too wild if you're planning on running TBI later on. With 9:1 compression, factory heads, and the chance of running TBI, I would either go with Comp Cams XE249H grind which is a EFI cam, or their Extreme4x4 cam, grind number X4254H, which either can be ordered in their "k" kit which is valvesprings, spring seats, retainers, valve seals, and lifters along with the cam. You still have to buy rocker arms and pushrods, but those are relatively cheap for a smallblock.

    Other than those key components, everything else is pretty straightforward, and you will have around a 260hp smallblock with 300+ ftlbs of torque. Not a monster by any means, but a decent relatively cheap, reliable motor that will work well for the job.

    Oh yeah, an intake manifold, just run some sort of aluminum 4bbl DUAL plane intake. Do not run a single plane. It will have better throttle response and low end torque on that type of motor, and with a $40 adapter plate, you can bolt a TBI throttle body right on top of it.

    If you have anymore questions, please feel free to ask. Thanks.
    Last edited by Fredo; 10-20-2004 at 03:54 PM.
    "You know, this car is so fast, that giving Corvette owners this car, is kinda like giving an AK-47 to a pysch ward."

    -Ron Fellows (Corvette C6R Team Driver)

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