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Thread: How a body lift can f' up your t-case

  1. #1
    Tommy sucks Sharpe's Avatar
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    How a body lift can f' up your t-case

    Before I moved to school about 4 months ago, I installed a 3" body lift on my suburban. I did everything that the kit told me, steering lengthen, column shifter lengthened, etc. Well shortly thereafter whenever I tried to shift my t-case (NP241) into 4 low it made a godawful grinding sound and I had to do a stupid pattern of putting the tranny in neutral and park before shifting into 4 low. Anyway a few days ago I went to install the slip yoke eliminator kit and as I disassembled the t-case, I noticed the range fork and sproket it attaches it, as well as the input shaft of the t-case (which is what the sprocket fits into) were all worn very badly. Down in the bottom of the case, I found some broken pieces of the pads that were supposed to fit in between the fork and sprocket, they had aparently not been in the correct place for quite some time as the above mentioned parts were worn beyond use.



    I had hell locating new parts, I couldnt even find a complete case to cobble parts together from. I finally found the parts I needed in a city 3 hours north of me, and had them put the parts on a grayhound bus and overnight them to me. So I got them today and the damn range fork wont fit, the other two pieces are perfect but I think they sent me a range fork for a driver's side drop case and mine is a passenger side drop. My original fork was made out of stamped steel and the one they sent me is cast aluminum (although it does have alot better designed pads...damn). So it doesnt fit. I had already bought a full set of pads for both forks from the dealership so I decided to "fix" the old fork. I used the grinder to re-open the little slots the pads fit into and grind down the sharp edge the sprocket had made.



    When I am putting the case back together, I notice the pads on the mode fork are very badly worn on one side, then it hits me. When I did the body lift I did not adjust the t-case shifter because the kit didnt say anything about it. From inside, the little orange square was not exactly on the correct range but it was close enough that I didnt worry about it. Today I realized that since its been body-lifted, the shifter has been slightly pulling on the forks which cause the severe wear on the pads which caused me to spend 4 days and $250 on parts. So I managed to get it all put back together tonight (with all new pads on both forks) and will adjust the shifter tomorow. I might have to fab a new connecting rod but that will be easy. Anyway kids, the moral of the story is dont neglect your t-case shifter when doing a body lift or it will bite you in the ass.
    On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"

  2. #2
    BigRedFord04
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    had the body lift on my truck for 5+ years now, never really had a problem w/ the t-case and i know it wasnt adjusted...just notched the floor a little to allow it to shift normally. although i'm sure theres something not quite right about it, transfer case is one of VERY few things on the truck that has never been disassembled, and wont be until it explodes into lots and lots of little tiny pieces. you would've probably never noticed either if you hadnt been doing an unnecessary mod to a SU-BUR-BAN....a SU-BUR-BAN....a FUKKING SU-BUR-BAN!!! (i cant see or say that word without thinking of Ron White's DVD).

  3. #3
    Tommy sucks Sharpe's Avatar
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    Well it was a problem because of the issue with shifting into 4 low. What is this suburban joke you speak of? I havent seen the DVD.
    On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"

  4. #4
    AgDieseler
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    Dear Robert,

    You and I own big vehicles. Most don't consider them worth upgrading. This includes Austin.

    Blessings!

    David

  5. #5
    BigRedFord04
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    daily driving and wheeling (well, sorta....right kopecki?) a heavily modified, "street legal", full size vehicle, i speak from experience. you should've learned too by now what Krebs has been preaching for well over a year...."FULL SIZES SUCK"...off-road anyway. the modifications i've done and will be doing in the future, have now taken a turn to make it more road worthy and a better tow vehicle for when i get a small, narrow, and short trail vehicle. I'm just tryin' to save these youngens the heartache from putting too much $$ into something that wont be useful if they really get involved in this past time.

    the joke i was talking about from Ron White is him talking about a shootout in California between cops and robbers at point blank range....22 shots were fired and the bad guys ran away. "POINT BLANK RANGE....22 shots and they didnt even hit the SU-BUR-BAN!"

  6. #6
    Tommy sucks Sharpe's Avatar
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    *** well dont have enough coin for 2 vehicles right now. I might be getting a jeep renegade soon but dont tell anybody. I was thinking about it and yes my t-case was deffinately fubar'd but, since it is still doing the grinding thing, I'm thinking the transmission output is still moving even when its in neutral thus causing the helacious grinding sound. Oh well all that means is that I have to turn the truck off to put it in 4low. Does that sound feasible to yall.

    PS: my next mods to the burban are going to be; 454 and hydraboost brakes, airbags in the rear and electronic brake controler. I'm picking up my new car hauler tomorow and figure there will be a time when I cant borrow mom's truck so I might as well make the burban safe to tow with.
    On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"

  7. #7
    Shaggy
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    i have a 454 in waco in a crew cab 2wd truck that has been parked... it runs good but the truck is in such bad condition it isnt worth driving... you wanna buy it

  8. #8
    D-FENS agjohn02's Avatar
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    i found out once that if you put have tcase in neutral and shift to drive, then no matter what you do, you cant avoid grinding without killing the engine. you can shift to neutral, it wont stop and the tcase will continue to grind when you try to shift. if you shift to park there is a gawdawful ratcheting sound that comes from the parking pall region. you just gotta kill the engine, shift to park and start all over with the tcase in gear.

  9. #9
    Tommy sucks Sharpe's Avatar
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    John, that is exacty what mine does. Glad to hear I'm not insane. Tate, I already bought a truck with a fo-fitty-fo in it, but I am deffinately interested in your truck, as I am a parts whore. PM with details and a price please.
    On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"

  10. #10
    . J Cooper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by agjohn02
    i found out once that if you put have tcase in neutral and shift to drive, then no matter what you do, you cant avoid grinding without killing the engine. you can shift to neutral, it wont stop and the tcase will continue to grind when you try to shift. if you shift to park there is a gawdawful ratcheting sound that comes from the parking pall region. you just gotta kill the engine, shift to park and start all over with the tcase in gear.
    .. yepp, thats normal

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