Originally Posted by savvyaggie
or she might charge extra to try to gain her 5 minutes of wasted life back
or she might charge extra to try to gain her 5 minutes of wasted life back
"Certainly there is no hunting like the hunting of man and those who have hunted armed men long enough and liked it, never really care for anything else thereafter."
'69 FJ-40, chevy383, sm420, 37's, RedNeckRam
'08 Tundra SR5 Poser Douche Rig on 35's
whoa, five minutes? way to go dude!
that has got to be a record
I got mine!!!! That's all that matters to me!!!!!
no, she is just a friend....
Picked up some new stainless brake lines from Bryan Ho's - 36" for the front and 24" for the rear. New tie rod should be here next week to fix the pigeon toe.
Now I just have to figure out why my driver side Warn keeps locking itself. I installed the bearings right, but the hub body is still a very tight fit. I'll have to take a look at it this weekend.
Here are the 36" stainless lines I had made. I also got a new 24"er for the rear brakes, too. I used an adel clamp on the shock tube to keep the extra long lines from being grabbed by the lugs on the tire.
The crossover draglink just barely clears the Banks crossover pipe, and has had a tendency to become polished at the bend over the axle's first week of service.
I'll flex out the suspension here in the next few days and see how everything works. I'm looking forward to wheeling again.
Plenty more photos here.
Last edited by AgDieseler; 02-28-2005 at 12:37 AM.
Those don't look stainless...I think you got skrood!
j/k looks good
Where did you get those brakelines made at?
read ^
Bryan Hose and Gasket. They have the black covering which I thought was cooler than the clear covering.
After looking at the prices for 7/8-18 thread taps, ($63 for RH & $150 for LH!) it was going to be way too expensive to modify my stock tie-rod, so I ordered a 1/4" wall one from ORD for $95. It's an okay deal, and in the make-or-buy scheme of things, it was the way to go for me. It should be here by about the middle of this week. That will fix the toe-out problem, although the truck tracks surprisingly well with its messed up alignment.
I installed the new 1.5" .25 wall DOM tie-rod, and gave the truck a proper alignment with 1/8" toe in. It actually drove fairly well pigeon toe'd.
I took the chance to actually use the new axle, and tried crossing the drainage ditch in front of work. I hit it at all the wrong angles. The ground was way too soft, and my ATs gummed up in short order. I'll try it again when things are dry. Also, I want 37s.
Now to solve the last problem:
My driver side hub is always wanting to engage. I went back over Warn's instructions, and my bearings are setup right as are the lock rings, so no luck there. To make the trip to Dallas this weekend, I removed the machine screw, inner lock ring, and the big spring. Now the dial can turn to its heart's content, and nothing will happen.
Has anybody else ever dealt with this? Any ideas?
take em back and they should warranty them
You put grease in the hub?
Okay, it turns out that the 35 spline D70 stubs are just a tid bit longer than the 30 spline stockers. The stub is pressing on the dial, trying to keep it stationary as the hub moves, thus resulting in uncommanded engagement.
When I get the chance, I'm going to clearance the end of the stub just a bit to see if that helps. If not, I've got the part number for a pair of dials with set screws like the hubs used on rear wheel applications. We'll see.
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