Chris Scotty's Claton Breakage

[TxCruzr]

you gaht lockah?
I hate breakage and am trying really hard to build my rig so that any moron (me ) can get in it turn the key and not worry about anything but keeping the rubber side down. Thus I have my lunchbox locker in storage instead of in the axle. If you guys think I can bind up my heavy 33s and dump the clutch without breaking a birf, I guess I'll go ahead and do it.

Worst thing that will happen is you break a birf and have 3 wheel drive just like you would without a locker and it will make you buy the Longs sooner than you planned.

[mark]

not trying to be an ass here, but chris had it coming. A big heavy 2nd gen 4runner, a v8, 35s, and a locker all on stock birfs? Thats just a recipe for disaster. In that kind of rig I wouldn't run anything short of a D60

When you wheel with Chris, you will soon realize that he always has it coming.

-Mark

[uglyota]

Worst thing that will happen is you break a birf and have 3 wheel drive just like you would without a locker and it will make you buy the Longs sooner than you planned.

and for $60/each more than planned

[stinger7401]

all the yota guys bragg about how yota stuff is stronger than 44's and close to 60's, i ran 33's fully locked up and then moved to 36's and only broke when I knew I was but still pushed it passed the limits. It didnt trash my lockers or anything, so if the yota guys back their stories of being stronger than a dana 44 i would say lock it up eric. I ran Cruces, Arizona, Hot Springs, Colorado or more than one occasion, Katemcy, Clayton and so with 44 axles, fully locked and 33's or 36's and never had a problem...

[uglyota]

that's only after you upgrade the birfields, but I guess I'll lock er up next time I catch up...

[8Runner]

Hey Guys,
I just wanted to chime in and say I pretty much knew I was in for some breakage on this trip. I was waiting to upgrade axle components until I got the engine/tranny running right. I expected to blow a birf, hub or axle shaft and brought the appropriate spares. What I ddn't expect was to blow everything at once! Good news is that the engine (and electrical system) ran awesome. That is a first in almost 2 years....

Anyway, after discussing with Busa, I am planning on doing the 30 Spline super set on http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/

I was wondering, however, if I would be better off setting up a failure point somewhere shy of the 3rd member though. Does anybody think I should purposely run a bit weaker birfs or shafts so that I don't trash my gears or locker? I wish there was some easily replaceable and cheap part that would have a lower tolerance than the time consuming and expensive parts.

[uglyota]

pull half of the locking hub studs out?
I'd get higher gears (5.29s are getting notorious, 4.10s are still king) and keep it all strong. It feels like someone's working on stronger r&ps, but they're not out yet.
Was either of those 3rd members a v6?

[mudtoy67]

I was wondering, however, if I would be better off setting up a failure point somewhere shy of the 3rd member though. Does anybody think I should purposely run a bit weaker birfs or shafts so that I don't trash my gears or locker? I wish there was some easily replaceable and cheap part that would have a lower tolerance than the time consuming and expensive parts.

Doesn't Warn make some kind of "hub fuses" or something like that. I thought I saw an article about them in peterson's a while back. They're supposed to be a lighter duty inner ring for the hub that breaks a little easier than normal hubs.

BTW, did you ever get your cooling problem fingered out?

[TxCruzr]

I've read alot where the hub fuse creates enough of a shock load when breaking that it usually takes out other parts. With 30 spline birfs it will probably take the hub out. It would be worth it to switch to asians and send them off to have the extra dowls inserted in them. The weak link would then be the R&P and for that you would have to swap to higher gears and maybe have them cryo'd.
In other words, leave the hubs the weak link and carry a few spares unless you want to regear.

[Fredo]

i'm still of the mindset that building a failure point into your drivetrain is stupid. If you're worried about breaking what you have you need to either run stronger stuff, run smaller tires, stay out of the happy pedal or just not wheel.

[8Runner]

Cooling problem is all better, thanks to some superb wack torching and massive radiator fab by Mario. I'm back to a stock water pump and a 2 speed taurus fan now. I didn't even have to use the higher speed on the clayton trip! I even have a spiffy new GM 140 amp alternator, so hopefully no more electrical fires...

No sure if one of the 3rd members was V6, I am betting the rear was since it was originally a V6 - but why should that matter, since they have allnew guts (5.29's and ARB's). I would like to step back down to 4.88's at some point, but that will happen when I can do a crawler setup, because right now it is geared just right.

[uglyota]

Maybe you need 4.10s and a 203 doubler for that 205 (is that right, or do you run a yota tcase?)
Hub fuses will take out a detroit, but I don't think they will toast an ARB, but you would have to run Warn hubs, for which the toyota models suck. Stick with aisins. You should spin the hub dowels/studs before you strip gears, so that should be your weak link. If you get the upgrade Joseph mentioned (hendrix motorsports I think), it's back on your gears

[Violentv8toy]

Are you looking for a long term solution, Chris?
Are you planning on doing a crawler setup soon(in the next year)?
Or are you just trying to get back in a wheelable state?

[8Runner]

I am looking to get it wheelable by Katemcy in april, though I am not planning on hammering it there. I can't afford much more than $1500 or so between now and then. That would cover the mods that Busa suggested.

I don't even know how much the crawler setup will run, but it will definitely be 6-18 months out.

Maybe you need 4.10s and a 203 doubler for that 205 (is that right, or do you run a yota tcase?)

Yes it is a 205 and the 203 doubler is what I was thinking about. Problem is, this means new driveshafts and a lot of other expensive work, with a fair amount of downtime.

The bottom line is that I don't feel like I can swap out gears now, yet that is one of the hardest parts to replace. I hate to make it the weak link...

[uglyota]

So why not fix it cheap for now, 2 welded 4.10 thirds (or lock-rite front), then swap those gears over to your ARB chunks when you get time/money for the 203 doubler and shafts (though the 203 should only run, what fidolla ? $300 for the adapter, and your out less than $100 for the two 4.10 thirds, then a hundred or so to get Jesse's dlines extended/shortened?) You've gotta do something about your front shafts regardless, another $635. You should be able to do everything but the ARBs...correctly...for under $1500.