Chris Scotty's Claton Breakage

[AgDieseler]

As far as "having" to swap from 15" rims when making the jump to a D60, don't sweat it. Just grind the calipers, use tape weights, and run it - no big deal.

[stx4wheeler]

right but you will need to run 2.75 backspacing with 15 inch rims, thats what i am gonna have to do, well ill look a little weird with 2.75 on the front and 4 in on the back till i get the money to change um all over, but as he said one tons will be a long way off for him so i guess this is not that important.

[8Runner]

I thought taco axles were different. Will those gears work with my setup?

[AgDieseler]

right but you will need to run 2.75 backspacing with 15 inch rims, thats what i am gonna have to do, well ill look a little weird with 2.75 on the front and 4 in on the back till i get the money to change um all over, but as he said one tons will be a long way off for him so i guess this is not that important.

I've got 3.5", and I had to grind about half the caliper. It may be different on dual piston Ferd stuff. Chevies can easily run 4" with a fair bit of grinding.

[uglyota]

need a picture...some tacos used 8.4, some used 8"
I think that the 8.4s will go in your diffs, but I'm not positive. If they're taco 8" then they're probably trd and have the elocker

[8Runner]

Sweet - I got some quick responses to my Wanted post on Pirate. I already found 2 stock 4.10 for $30 ea, and a hopefully a complete third member with 4.10's for $30 more. I'll wld up the complete third member to use as a spare.

[uglyota]

I always wondered why you guys use a welded third as your spare...I think I would want an open third for the spare, at least without hydro assist, so you can turn the wheels while you're limping out. Just my opinion.
Sounds like a good deal, chris.

[stx4wheeler]

I always wondered why you guys use a welded third as your spare...I think I would want an open third for the spare, at least without hydro assist, so you can turn the wheels while you're limping out. Just my opinion.
Sounds like a good deal, chris.

I could be totally wrong here since i am not so knowledgeable about yota's ,but from what i have seen it seems like most of them are breaking the rear third member's so i guess they, are wanting a locked rear in case of a break, but yeah i would think a welded front would be a pita without hydo assist.

awesome deal chris glad your trying this approach.

[eight]

Well, this "they", if you're meaning scott and busa, do have hydro assist. And scott has a welded front anyway.

[8Runner]

From my limited knowledge, I was thinking I could unlock a hub in tight steering situation. It's a good point though. Upgraded steering is my next project. Maybe I will wait until then to weld my spare.

Another point is that if my front end breaks, it is probably not a fix that would be worthwhile on a trip (I think somebody said it's a 6 hour job?!?). It's the rear that usually breaks anyway, (which is more like a 2-3 hour job I think from helpling scott with his in Clayton).

[redcagepatrol]

you gaht lockah?
I hate breakage and am trying really hard to build my rig so that any moron (me ) can get in it turn the key and not worry about anything but keeping the rubber side down. Thus I have my lunchbox locker in storage instead of in the axle. If you guys think I can bind up my heavy 33s and dump the clutch without breaking a birf, I guess I'll go ahead and do it.
sorry for the hijack, chris. 4.88 and 30 spline time?

Eric, I only broke one stock birfield while running 33's and went many places all locked up. I only started breaking stock ones when I stepped up to 37's...

And for Chris - good luck with everything...

[uglyota]

Scott and busa run hi-pinion thirds in front, which are reverse cut and stronger for front application, chris is running a standard low-pinion in front, which should actually be weaker than the same thing in a rear application.

If it's just a 3rd member swap, the rear should only be like a 1-hour job, front might take a few hours, but not 6

Thanks scott, I'll swap 'er in then.

[redcagepatrol]

If it's just a 3rd member swap, the rear should only be like a 1-hour job

By the time you get it jacked up, on jack stands, drain the fluid, pull the shafts, disconnect the driveshaft, get all of the broken parts out, drink a beer, clean off the mating surfaces, put it back together, find missing nuts, drink another beer, smear silicone on, put the shafts back in, redrill the 3rd member flange to match the driveshaft, find fluid to fill it back up with and fill it up and get it back on it's tires - I bet it will be at least two hours without airtools...

[uglyota]

redrill the 3rd member flange to match the driveshaft...

standard procedure?

[redcagepatrol]

standard procedure?

it seams that way... Spare driveshafts, spare 3rd members, nothing ever seems to match