Now that you posted that picture it makes a lot more sense now. Please proceed with your current plans, I will await a finished project patiently.
Now that you posted that picture it makes a lot more sense now. Please proceed with your current plans, I will await a finished project patiently.
I like the m715 idea. you could do a roll at the top (like old p/u model T) and make it a little bigger and that would give you the fender effect...is that what you were saying fred or were you actually talking about a 1/4" thick arched fender lip like they already have?
For the first time in years, something on this rig has actually been put together.
Got the rear crossmember welded in tonight.
measure, measure, measure, weld, weld, measure, weld, weld, measure, check level, weld, weld, weld, weld, weld, weld...
BDR
Got the rear bumper built. I'll leave the ends unfinished until cage time...I'm thinking the rear tubes of the cage will be outside the fenders to protect the tail-lights and will mount to the bumper ends.
The holes on either side of the receiver are for hitch pin clearance. I'll put in a half of a square tube on either side to close it back up behind the pin hole.
BDR
You probably could have just redriled the reciever tube? All of the hitch inserts I've got have atleast 8" between the pin hole and the drop section.
I looked at all the drop hitches at Northern Tool, and my Warn D-ring mount at home, and there was just not any room to move the hole back. Any more and the D-ring would interfere with the bumper.
I did a lot of searching to what other people have done, but couldn't come up with anything conclusive as to what needed to be done. It had just enough length that if I flush mounted the outside face it would have worked, but I like the look better when it sticks out a bit.
BDR
Get a piece of pipe and cut it in half length wise instead of the square tubing. It would be mo' peemp.
Looks good
i guess my tube was a little longer than that one.
I saw yours and couldn't figure out what to do to make mine work. If I was just using regular drop hitches, I could have just redrilled them to match. But the Warn D-ring mount doesn't have any extra meat on the end to redrill.
I like the tube filler idea...I'll check it out.
BDR
I've got to get the axles back together if I'm gonna move, so I've been doing so planning...
I remember Flem or Fred (or both) at one point told me that my TBI computer, even though my trans is not electronic, still needs a speed signal to operate a little more properly. So since my Isuzu D44 already has a VSS built in with tone ring on the carrier, I was going to find a way to use this. I'm wondering though, if I'm not using an electronic trans or care about a speedo, does it matter that the tone ring on the Isuzu is not going to give the same number of pulses per mile as the chevy VSS would? All the computer really needs is a signal to tell it if the vehicle is moving/stationary/speeding up/slowing down, right?
Now I'm thinking what would be the best way to accomplish this. I could sell my current 4.56 gearset and pick up a set of thick 4.56 so that I can use the stock carrier. Problem with this is thick 4.56 gears are expensive new and pretty much non-existant used. So my other idea is use the stock thick 4.10 gears for the D44, then pick up a set of used 4.10 gears for the FJ front...which are a little easier to come by. This would save me from having to set up the pita Dana axle, and instead set up the easy FJ third.
I'm planning on running ~36" tires. With the TH350/D300 and 4.10s I still have a lower ratio than the TH350/NP205 w/ 4.56s. I'm also planning a 231 crawl box, so really the 4.10s shouldn't be an issue.
Any thoughts?
BDR
Custom tone rings can be made to make the VSS happy, but I think its a PITA. What year is your TBI puter? Chevy didnt start using VSS until 1991 so you might be able to use a different puter. Another option is to reprogram it to eliminate the VSS. I dont have the slightest clue how this works but I had it removed on my 8.1 and it runs like a raped ape so take that for what its worth.
On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"
engine is a 92, computer is an 87 or 88 (the typical xxxx7747 computer). I have the computer for the 92, which is what I want to run since the mismatched computer may be part of the problem...but I need to get the vats removed.
BDR