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Thread: beefy steering mis alignment bushing ??????

  1. #1
    True Hollywood Stry
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    beefy steering mis alignment bushing ??????

    alright guys i have searched through lots of the threads on hear to decide how do do my steering on the 60, and i am gonnna use one that my drag link is held on by the same bolt as the tierod. i am gonna use 3/4 inch heims, and prolly some schedule 80, how do i find out what mis alignment bushing things i need? i am running about 6-7 inches of lift, and the new tie rod and draglink will be on top of the knuckle.

    hey pollock what diamter schedule 80 should i use?
    He who dies with the most **** wins, after seeing your collection you are in the lead no doubt!

  2. #2
    Registered User uglyota's Avatar
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    Got a pic? Are you stacking the DL and TR heims on top of the knuckle? That's a big job for one bolt, especially if it's in single shear. Your DL will have tons of leverage on that bolt. Do you already have the heims? Polyperformance has integrated high misalignment bushings/heims, but if the hole in the knuckle is already drilled 3/4" you might have to step up to 7/8 or so.
    Quote Originally Posted by Shaggy View Post
    damnit... if everyone is leaving i want my original 15 back... i dont wanna be left with these tools

  3. #3
    True Hollywood Stry
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    im going to use 3/4 inch heims from sardesonracing.com for like 14 bucks a piece, and i am going to order the inserts from polyperformance, and also buy there misalignment bushings. yes i am going to stack them, the double sheer crap seems like more work than it is worth i have done some reading on our forum, and on others. it seems lots of people run it like that and dont seem to have many problems, since i am going buy cheaper heims i am going to buy one of two extra and carry an extra grade 8 bolt, even though i think it is doubtful that i will sheer the 3/4 inch grade 8 bolt, even with the added force of my ram.

    what does the misalignment bushing do exactly? i have searched and really cant find anything with a good explaination, will the misalignment bushing just be sandwiched between my TR, and DL.
    i should only need one misalignment bushing right?

    if it seems i am making a major mistake someone let me know now cause i will have all of this stuff ordered by tomorrow.
    He who dies with the most **** wins, after seeing your collection you are in the lead no doubt!

  4. #4
    Registered User uglyota's Avatar
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    I think you are making a major mistake...see reasons above.
    How much clearance are you going to lose if you just put the TR below the knuckle? That seems way safer to me.
    Misalignment washers let your heim move farther without binding up on whatever it's mounted to.
    you should need 2 misalignment washers for each heim that will be in misalignment...one on top and one on bottom. TR should not need them because the knuckles should always be parallel to each other.
    If you have a heim at each end of your DL, you need 4 misalignment washers.
    crawltech in tyler sells a misalignment bushing/safety washer that I used for the free end on mine. That keeps your steering from falling apart if the heim busts.
    Here's a pic:

    Quote Originally Posted by Shaggy View Post
    damnit... if everyone is leaving i want my original 15 back... i dont wanna be left with these tools

  5. #5
    TAMOR Obsession Chadnutz's Avatar
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    Seems like when your are turning right the drag link is pushing to the right, yet the tie rod is pulling back to the left because it is pulling a tire to the right. This should eliminate some of the total force pushing to the right on the bolt. I drew a picture, but the members rigs still isn't working.

  6. #6
    Once was lost... BMFScout's Avatar
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    you can't do a two hole arm setup or run the arms that run the tie rod out behind the axle? I like that idea better, but it may not be possible on this setup. However, you were here this past weekend and didn't bother to even come by and say hi, so eat my ass
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  7. #7
    Registered User uglyota's Avatar
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    tell your parents that you're on the verge of committing bootyfab and need money for a steering arm so your truck doesn't get out of control and kill half the trailerpark
    Quote Originally Posted by Shaggy View Post
    damnit... if everyone is leaving i want my original 15 back... i dont wanna be left with these tools

  8. #8
    True Hollywood Stry
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    alright i got some questions, first off i will address jimmys question- you are saying to run a double holed hi steer arm off of the king pin cap one hole for dl, and the otehr for tierod right? basically i had seem that setup that i explained to eric about the tierod-then drag link stacked on other people rigs and it was working fine. plus i dont want to spend another 2-400 bucks in hi steer stuff that i most likely dont need, but i will do it if 100 percent necessary. and no the parents wont pay for anything on the pig, eric.

    alright now eric, now if i run a twin high steer arm, or my setup you are saying i am going to need4 misalgnment bushings? http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/...&cat=98&page=1

    and then 4 washers-
    http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/...&cat=98&page=1

    Wouldnt it be just two of the spacers, one for the dL-pitman arm side, and one for the knuckle side correct?, and then a washers for the rest?

    and no i am not gonna run the tie road under the knuckle cause i would lose prolly close to three inches of gc.

    ?? would going with one high steer arm for the drag link, and then jsut putting the tierod on top of the knuckles be kosher?

    i dont think i would want full highsteer cause then i am gonna most likely run into all kinds of problems with making my ram work, and trac bar and........

    i think i am more confused now then when i asked my first question, you all set me straight and give me some advice suggestions, the more i think of it my last suggestion might be what i might go with. help me i am lost
    He who dies with the most **** wins, after seeing your collection you are in the lead no doubt!

  9. #9
    Tommy sucks Sharpe's Avatar
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    Poor, poor trailer park...
    On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"

  10. #10
    chevsu
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    High Steer!

  11. #11
    Registered User uglyota's Avatar
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    Kev I know you're trying to save the $$$ on high-steer arms, but you'll eventually go there and have to re-fab everything again, so why not spend the money now?
    okay now since that's not what I'd do (choosing instead to spend a little bit less money 3 or 4 times before achieving the desired result), could you post a pic to show us what you're dealing with?
    the only problem I could think of with running one high-steer arm would be if it puts your driver side tierod mount lower than your passenger side one. That would leave you with an angled tierod which may be safe but sure would look ghetto.
    Try and look for crossover arms instead of hy-steer arms. you can get a crossover arm for toyotas that leaves your tierod low, but gives you another higher hole to mount your drag link to, which also settles out your dl angles (which is supposed to reduce bump and flex steer)
    You only need a safety washer for the side of the heim that isn't captive by the knuckle, i.e. the outer part of the heim can't fall off towards the arm, but it may fall off over the nut, so the washer prevents that.
    here are some cheaper alternatives if you don't need crazy misalignment:
    http://www.crawltech.com/catalog/pro...5fc36bb9c7f11b
    http://www.crawltech.com/catalog/pro...roducts_id=832

    but really...why not just put the TR below the knuckle? Not like the NASTY's gonna notice a little ol' 3 inches anyway...
    Quote Originally Posted by Shaggy View Post
    damnit... if everyone is leaving i want my original 15 back... i dont wanna be left with these tools

  12. #12
    True Hollywood Stry
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    eric why would my tierod be at an angle with a one hi steer setup. i believe nick was running the same thing on his jeep look at this pic and i drew here to get how i am now thinking of setting it up.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    He who dies with the most **** wins, after seeing your collection you are in the lead no doubt!

  13. #13
    Violentv8toy
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    thats how mine is set up. If you get some raised arms and set the heim over the arm you won't get much, if any bumpsteer.

    I'm a little confused as to what the confusion is. If u want to run it cheap drill your knuckles 3/4 and slap a tie rod on there. Buy a single arm drilled 3/4 and toss a draglink on there. If u don't have your pitman drilled, just run a regular rod end. My buddy ran hydro assist with heims on his 39" tire k5 which is similar in size to your bronco and he swapped to regular rod ends after a year cause his heims were so sloppy. I never thought that heims could get sloppy (after all, the ball doesn't move horizontally when its worn out) but it sure did feel sloppy from behind the wheel and i don't know if i'd recommend cheap heims....and thats coming from a cheap bastard.

  14. #14
    Violentv8toy
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    also, if you want to do it on the cheap...this is what i did. I'm not sure if you are running regular rod ends, but I cut my original drag links in 1/2 and stuffed em down the pipe and plug/circle welded them to length. Its not the most beautiful thing and i wouldn't post em on the internet saying "look at my drag link, its so beautiful" but its just as strong as everyone elses and it does the job.

  15. #15
    Registered User uglyota's Avatar
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    yeah that's another thing I was gonna mention, spend the money on decent heims. I've got greasable ones from sardeson and they're pieces of poo
    would you please post a pic of the freakin knuckle? I'm sure the confusion is being caused mainly by the differences between yota stuff and dana stuff
    The pic you drew would be called standard crossover on a yota and is perfectly legit
    Quote Originally Posted by Shaggy View Post
    damnit... if everyone is leaving i want my original 15 back... i dont wanna be left with these tools

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