Blazer Revival 2005!

[Doug Krebs]

enough with ya'lls gay rims...

David Oliver style, don't scratch it!

[Doug Krebs]

anyone use rotors that are less than perfect?

one of mine is under about .02, but other than that it's fine

the other one is pitted on both sides for about 3" and it's over by .01. Turning them down .01 isn't going to fix the pitting problem.

I guess the only adverse effects would be chewing up the brake pad quicker? Think it would grab?

On the the thing one, does it matter that much? I don't see .02 under being a huge factor in stopping.

[agjohn02]

this reminds me. one of mine is under spec. the dangers are that they will get too hot or worse case collapse and lock up.

[Doug Krebs]

this reminds me. one of mine is under spec. the dangers are that they will get too hot or worse case collapse and lock up.

so, for crawling or the occasional slow ride around town would it be ok? I eventually will replace them, but i'm already spening too much on this.

[Doug Krebs]

ok, time for another raping...

anyone know where you can get the studs for the steering arm cheaper than $7 a piece??? Thats just crazy!

[agjohn02]

so, for crawling or the occasional slow ride around town would it be ok? I eventually will replace them, but i'm already spening too much on this.

definately ok for that.

[agjohn02]

ok, time for another raping...

anyone know where you can get the studs for the steering arm cheaper than $7 a piece??? Thats just crazy!

partsmike?

[Doug Krebs]

definately ok for that.

what do you think about the pitted one?

[eight]

Well I'd imagine the studs are just normal studs somethin about 5/8" fine on one side coarse on the other. If I were in need of such a thing, I'd check a business that specializes in fastener sales. It'd need to be close to home so shipping isn't needed.

Or you can just use bolts like most everyone else.

[agjohn02]

i dunno about the pitted one. just have it turned 10 thousands and see how it cleans up. try it. if it grabs, going slow, then dont use it. id have to see it before id try to guess.

ive read some reason why bolts are a bad idea but i dont remember why.

[Doug Krebs]

I think I'm just going to use grade 8 threaded rod or something better. I found threaded rod on mcmaster that was similar to the arp bolt properties. I can't see spending 50-65 on 8 studs. Nuts will be lug nuts.

Sand blasted the knuckles and brake plates today. Ran a tap down all the holes only to discover one hole on the steering arm side either was too big and tapped, or a stud ripped out. There is no thread until about 1/3 of an inch down. With the all thread I'll be able to go all the way to the bottom.

[agjohn02]

[QUOTE=Doug Krebs]Nuts will be lug nuts.

QUOTE]


are they the same taper? the cones cant be that much.

[tigweld]

lug nuts are what the sky arms come with and I think the taper on the hole is a little more and somewhat shallower than the holes for cones.

[fbronco86]

I think I'm just going to use grade 8 threaded rod or something better. I found threaded rod on mcmaster that was similar to the arp bolt properties. I can't see spending 50-65 on 8 studs. Nuts will be lug nuts.

Sand blasted the knuckles and brake plates today. Ran a tap down all the holes only to discover one hole on the steering arm side either was too big and tapped, or a stud ripped out. There is no thread until about 1/3 of an inch down. With the all thread I'll be able to go all the way to the bottom.

Is that threaded rod rolled threads?

[uglyota]

doesn't that defeat the purpose of cone washers? I thought the point was that they had a split in them and would compress around the stud when the nut was tightened down around them