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Thread: Crossover and hydroassist

  1. #16
    Yo soy tu papa! Doug Krebs's Avatar
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    I'll have to check with mike, I'll tell him you told me he has one

    I can't see Villas charging less than $30 to ream 4 holes. I found one on ebay that alot of pirate people use for $42 shipped. I'd rather own one at that price.

    Of course if some nice person would let me borrow one...
    1988 Blazer...RIP

  2. #17
    73bronco
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Krebs
    where did you wankers buy your tre ream? Anyone want to let me borrow theirs?
    I just ordered one that will work for the chevy TR's, I'll make you a deal, reamer for tap use

  3. #18
    fbronco86
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Krebs
    I'll have to check with mike, I'll tell him you told me he has one

    I can't see Villas charging less than $30 to ream 4 holes. I found one on ebay that alot of pirate people use for $42 shipped. I'd rather own one at that price.

    Of course if some nice person would let me borrow one...
    grayson has the reamer.

  4. #19
    73bronco
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    UPS just delivered the reamer, tube, and new shafts so whenever youre ready to make the tie rods let me know.

  5. #20
    ill be your pickup man
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    i might need to use a reamer soon. SO it can ream the hole out to fit the 1ton TRE?

    Also, I already drilled out the hole in my knuckle to 5/8". ANyone know if that hole can still be reamed to fit the 1 ton TRE?
    Last edited by JB; 12-13-2005 at 12:39 PM.
    92 YJ
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    11 F-250 4x4

  6. #21
    ill be your pickup man
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    The es2026 and es2027 are the ends that I have seen used. I know we have them in stock at work, and I think they were $22.

    Krebs, you weren't sure about running the drag link ends in the tie rod. I was planning on doing this. What would be wrong with it?
    92 YJ
    04 F-150 4x4
    11 F-250 4x4

  7. #22
    73bronco
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    I think 5/8 might be too much, but not 100% on that

  8. #23
    Tommy sucks Sharpe's Avatar
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    Back to the top. I am going to re-do the steering on Pigpen since the draglink is too long, the ends are worn out, and the factory tie-rod is bent a little.

    I basically want to do it with the same size stuff as Garrett. He gave me the part numbers for the ends, but I need to know what inner diameter the tube needs to be to tap the threads so I can order it. Here are the part numbers and links to the ones I am planning on using. I still need to locate a left side tie rod end that doesnt have the hole for the draglink like Garrett's though.

    Left side tierod- any suggestions or applications to look up?
    Right side tierod- es2234r
    http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...od+End+-+Outer
    Left side draglink- es2027L
    http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...tion=Drag+Link
    Right side draglink- es2026r
    http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...tion=Drag+Link

    Why would you want to use drag link ends on the tierod anyway? From what I understand, draglink ends have more range of motion than TREs but its not like the tierod needs it. It seems like most people use tierod ends on draglinks, I can only assume its because they have shorter shanks and are less likely to bend.
    On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"

  9. #24
    Tommy sucks Sharpe's Avatar
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    Found a left side TRE without the hole.

    es2010l
    http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...od+End+-+Outer

    Its twice as expensive as all the others though, I wonder why. Is a 7/8" shank the largest you can get? Is that a one ton size, half, or 3/4? I think I'm going to go ruin the napa guy's day tomorow and ask them to bust out the draglink book just to confirm the shank size question. Those numbers John posted are the ones aparently everyone uses so they are probably going to be my best bet.
    On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"

  10. #25
    chevsu
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    you can get a 1" shank TRE

  11. #26
    Shaggy
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    i bought some 1" shank ones at napa... i still need to find someone with a tap so i can thread these.... you have one cody?.. reverse thread too?

  12. #27
    D-FENS agjohn02's Avatar
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    when i ordered my drag link it came with the same threads at both ends. i cant adjust it without taking one of the DLEs out, but then why would you need to adjust it once you set it correctly. i never have. this would let you run the shorter Chevy ES2027L DLE on both ends.

    so, does this look like the best combination:

    DLE on both ends
    MRCES2027L- $21.99 - 7/8" shank

    TRE
    MRCES2011R- $24.49 - 1” shank
    MRCES2064L- $36.99 - 1” shank
    these are much cheaper than the ones cody is running

    the NAPA part #'s add a MRC on the beginning

    what did you end up doing robert?

  13. #28
    Tommy sucks Sharpe's Avatar
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    I used all the ones that I posted. For the draglink, I used 1/4 wall tube and for the tierod I used 3/8 wall. I never did find the correct ID for tapping it so I just bought the tube from the same place Garrett did. It was probably way overpriced but it had the correct ID for tapping 7/8-18 threads and they sold it by the foot. It all works great now and pigpen has straight steering for the first time ever.
    On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"

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