okie dokie... you think he is open today
okie dokie... you think he is open today
Have we contacted Mike Green and "Frielands" to make sure we can get on those properties this weekend? I am not sure if they have added a gate to Mikes place yet, but they might have. Frielands already has a gate with a lock on it...
Scott, FTAC '99
'62 Nissan Patrol 4-seat Twisted Customs Buggy
'89 "CJ-7" - Her trail rig
'05 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 TRD - her daily driver...
'08 Dodge 2500 Mega Cab 6.7 Diesel 4x4
scott.schubring@williams.com
The office sucks - I wanna go wheeling!
Got the crossmember all done tonight, but ran into a snag while getting ready to put in on the trailer - the steering hits the header now that the engine is lower. We are going to cut out some of the unnecessary crap (like bushings) tomorrow night and see if we can make it work.
Thanks,
Chris Scotti
1988 Suzuki Samurai buggy
tramslation: found more booty fab to cut off the rig. Should be good to go tomorrow.
I am confused, how will cutting out bushings help the clearence problem between the steering and the header? Or when you say steering, are you talking about the shaft going between the steering box and the steering wheel?
I circled it from my earlier motor mount pic. This flange sandwiches a bushing that reduced road vibration (essentially vestigial in my swamper clad rig). It also has some nuts in there as bootyfab washers from a body lift at some point (WOW). You can't really tell from this pic, but the outer edges of this flange & the bolts hit the header every time I turn the wheel. In fact, I can't even turn the wheel more than a quarter turn. The plan, as I understand it, is to remove the bushing & nut and bolt them directly together. Then fill the gap by resheathing the tube. Hopefully this is the only conflict we missed when we lowered & moved back the motor...
Thanks,
Chris Scotti
1988 Suzuki Samurai buggy
dont you need the rag joint to help with binding issues?
oh and chris, cut it out with the big words
i think you just made up vestigial
Like eric said he has a u-joint just in front of it. But in some cases you're right.Originally Posted by JeepPhisherman
BDR
Ok, made some more progress tonight. The ragjoint has been removed and the header beat in enough that it doesn't hit anymore. I also pulled the PS pump & lines so that I can get them replicated tomorrow. Here is my list:
Reinstall Rear driveshaft (need to get some bolts)
Have PS pump installed (Andy's Auto)
Pull AC (Andy's Auto)
Install Rock Lights
Flex and see if there is any skid plate interference
Tap & install remaining bolts into crossmember
Test/Replace Redtop Battery
Clean up and repair wiring
Clearance & reinstall center console
I will be doing all this Tuesday & Weds night and could definitely use another pair of hands. I plan to do this at Lance's shop so we'll have real tools and materials to work with. PM or call if you can help.
Thanks,
Chris Scotti
1988 Suzuki Samurai buggy
what kind of bolts do you need for the driveshaft? Not the toyota ones?
Toy on the pinion side, Chevy (NP205) on the other. Anybody know the sizes so I can just go pick them up?
Thanks,
Chris Scotti
1988 Suzuki Samurai buggy
Still dont know what that means, so I'm not sure whether you're comming onto me or trying to insult meOriginally Posted by uglyota