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Thread: lug nut tech?

  1. #1
    Registered User uglyota's Avatar
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    lug nut tech?

    My new alloy wheels have the lug nut seats kind of countersunk into the wheel, so that when it comes time to torque them only about half of the nut is sticking out of the wheel where I can get a socket on it. So I guess I need longer lug nuts, but I can't seem to find what I'm looking for. Is there a name for this style of lug nut? Where can I get them? Threads are 12Mx1.5
    Thanks in advance
    Quote Originally Posted by Shaggy View Post
    damnit... if everyone is leaving i want my original 15 back... i dont wanna be left with these tools

  2. #2
    Once was lost... BMFScout's Avatar
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    blingin' chrome capped ones are probably what they are designed for. I know they make longer open style ones, where have you tried so far? Maybe Cooks can make you some
    Boats and hoes

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  3. #3
    Registered User uglyota's Avatar
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    just looking on ebay, summit and jegs. Was gonna hit up oreilly this afternoon
    on the "shank" style the shank actually goes beyond the seat, right? I don't think i want that. Brandon and his friend Eric said that alloys need a style with washers?
    Quote Originally Posted by Shaggy View Post
    damnit... if everyone is leaving i want my original 15 back... i dont wanna be left with these tools

  4. #4
    Once was lost... BMFScout's Avatar
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    I don't know what shank style means, washers aren't necessarily required, however it is more important to torque them down correctly.
    Boats and hoes

    Stumble in to the liquor store
    With a dollar-fifty for a bottle of wine,
    I know just what I'm lookin for
    Thunderbird will do just fine.

  5. #5
    VW Ninja Jackasic's Avatar
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    they have them up at Dixie Tire also.

  6. #6
    D-FENS agjohn02's Avatar
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    shank style. the sleeve goes between the lug and the hole. the hole in the wheel is not tapered. i think they require a washer on aluminum wheels.



    aluminum wheels with tapered holes require a bigger lug nut than a steel wheel. if you use steel wheel lugs on an alluminum wheel the nuts will pull through the wheel leaving a nice hexagonal hole.

  7. #7
    Tommy sucks Sharpe's Avatar
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    So you gonna post pics of the bling or what?
    On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"

  8. #8
    Teaching America's youth RCcola55's Avatar
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    whats with the staggered look u got going on right now
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by uglyota
    just looking on ebay, summit and jegs. Was gonna hit up oreilly this afternoon
    on the "shank" style the shank actually goes beyond the seat, right? I don't think i want that. Brandon and his friend Eric said that alloys need a style with washers?
    yes the shanks make it a b!tch to put the tires on cause you have to lift up to the get lugs on. Its even more fun when the previous owner put gorilla locks on every lug
    Quote Originally Posted by Graystroke View Post
    So you loose, I win!

  10. #10
    Registered User uglyota's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RCcola55
    whats with the staggered look u got going on right now
    you mean my Texas Tilt?
    when in Rome...

    so on the shank style is the seat at the bottom of the shank or is it at the bottom of the "hex" (for lack of a better word)?
    I had the impression that the "shank" was going all the way through the wheel, but now I'm thinking that the shank only goes from the seat to the "face" of the wheel?
    Quote Originally Posted by Shaggy View Post
    damnit... if everyone is leaving i want my original 15 back... i dont wanna be left with these tools

  11. #11
    D-FENS agjohn02's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by uglyota
    you mean my Texas Tilt?
    when in Rome...

    so on the shank style is the seat at the bottom of the shank or is it at the bottom of the "hex" (for lack of a better word)?
    I had the impression that the "shank" was going all the way through the wheel, but now I'm thinking that the shank only goes from the seat to the "face" of the wheel?

    it makes contact at the bottom of the "hex". if it made contact at the "bottom of the shank" against the hub first, it wouldnt clamp the wheel on. the friction between the wheel and hub is what carries torque. not the lugs themselves, there should be space between the bottom of the shank and the face of the hub, if not, dont drive it.

  12. #12
    Dead or alive... mudtoy67's Avatar
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    Check the manufacturer's website or call them to find out exactly what kind of lug you need. Not all non-steel wheels use shank lugs, my alum wheels use regular tapered seat lug nuts.
    BDR

  13. #13
    Buckaroo Bonzai!!! Reckless's Avatar
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    Thats what my MT II wheels on my CJ use.

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