quit tainting the thread karl
oh, and I spent the last half of today working on the "company car" 2001 kawasaki ninja. Been in storage since 03. japanese wiring sucks
Doug I would be surprised to see if the expansion causes any problems, but what do I know, I'm still taking 2000 level classes
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Originally Posted by Doug Krebs
i dunno. never could find a definite answer. thats the main reason i finish machine after heat treat.
Did you do the heat treat at school? Or have it sent off. I think I need to have a few beers with you and talk this over.
1988 Blazer...RIP
Mr T pities tha fool who pisses off Chuck Norris
sent it off to conroe. its really not very expensive as long as you're not in a hurry. they'll just piggyback it with another order and throw it in with something else they're running at that temp.
So did you figure out what you are going to do about clearancing the 241 yet? I assume you are still planning on running the ford 205 and just flipping the 241?
On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"
back into business...
after further research, this **** can be cut. I need to by ceramic inserts which can cut up to HRc70. I dicked around more on the lathe with carbide inserts and made steel wool, which proceeded to catch on fire
1988 Blazer...RIP
once you get past the tranny-tcase bolt pattern and input are all 231s essentially the same?
Will the planetaries from a 241 swap drop right into the front of a 231?
Are the input and bolt pattern on a chevy 241 and 231 the same?
how's the positraction on a plymouth work?
post some pictures doug...
From what I understand:
Cases are similar if not identical
Only difference in the planetaries are the 231 has 3 satelite gears and the 241 has 6
If someone has a 231 they can bring it over and we can compare, shafts and length of engagement
1988 Blazer...RIP
I bet it wont change more that .001-002 size od wise. The problem with heat treating and stuff is warping. Round matl generally has high stresses around the OD so when you machine on them or heat treat them they tend to wanna move on you. I would not worry about the size changing on you but I would have it supported/laying flat when you heat treat.
Also make sure you wrap that dude up and put some graphite(sp) with it to keep it from getting all messed up.
back into business...
after further research, this **** can be cut. I need to by ceramic inserts which can cut up to HRc70. I dicked around more on the lathe with carbide inserts and made steel wool, which proceeded to catch on fire
Ceramic inserts cost alot of money 10-20 bucks an inserts I bet.
a lot of what causes the warping during heat treat is the lying flat during quench. when you drop it in and it lies on the bottom of the tank, heat dissapates at a different rate on one sdie than the other. the best way is to suspend it in the fluid so the part quenches evenly all the way around.
I would be more worried about it cracking, higher carbon steels have more of a tendency to do that, then you have to slow the cooling by using oil instead of water or crap like that. Ask Robert about when he was making the new die and he cracked the crap out of it. Also cracks usually start at sharp corners, like splines...
-Karl
2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
1965 Chevelle
1975 Corvette
oooo, BURN! you better not do it yourself doug, im scared. better let a pro do it.
I am all for Doug doing this, I want him to learn and tell me how to do it so he can tell me.oooo, BURN! you better not do it yourself doug, im scared. better let a pro do it.
And the pro's started like this too... Unless your Chuck Norris, than you just know
-Karl
2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
1965 Chevelle
1975 Corvette
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