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Thread: B.W.T.

  1. #91
    Old school badass Seth's Avatar
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    im at work right now - ill be here til 6 at the latest - i will pm or post up when i am gonna get out there - that way i dont end up with help and nothing to do - anybody for track bar bracket? is austin ever on here anymore?
    Seth Stewart '04
    2000 Suburban DD
    1995 F150 SAS - Needs more work to sell
    1998 GMC pickup - sold
    2003 Yukon XL - wrecked/motor donor
    1975 Scout - TBD
    1976 Scout - parts truck
    1972 IH 1310 dually - TBD
    196? Scout 800 - 302 roller

  2. #92
    Old school badass Seth's Avatar
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    by the way thanks guys
    Seth Stewart '04
    2000 Suburban DD
    1995 F150 SAS - Needs more work to sell
    1998 GMC pickup - sold
    2003 Yukon XL - wrecked/motor donor
    1975 Scout - TBD
    1976 Scout - parts truck
    1972 IH 1310 dually - TBD
    196? Scout 800 - 302 roller

  3. #93
    Old school badass Seth's Avatar
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    Just came in from workin on the truck a little. Thought I would post an update.

    I got the steering roughly on there, looks like that is all gonna bolt up no problem.

    Drilled two more holes for the rear radius arm brackets. Need to find erics chuck key so that I can put the bit back in and drill the last two.

    I also started putting the brake rotors, caliper brackets, spindles, etc back on.

    I got the steering box shaft threads cleaned up enough with a file to get the nut on.

    Now for some questions:

    How much of the tie rod "shaft" should there be between the knuckle and the tie rod body? (or the TRE and pitman arm, or TRE and center link) I just want to make sure that they are seating in there enough.

    One tie rod end (the old new one that came with the axle) has a spacer and two thin washers and one thick washer. All the new ones came with just a boot, zerk, and cottor pin. Does it matter what I use where? I would like to use the boots on all of them including the old one if I can and not use the spacer at all.

    The nuts that hold the spindle on are tapered like a lug nut - should that taper go in to center something? or does the flat side go in?

    I only checked one wheel bearing, but it feels really loose, is there any way to explain on here how to tell if one is bad? Keep in mind I will be taking this thing apart at least once more, and maybe more than once more, to put in new bearings, replace one of the balljoints, and get the brakes sorted out.

    Also - I didn't see any bushings in my box of stuff that looked like they went around the big bolt on the axle for the track bar - anybody know anything about that? The ones I have are both rubber with smaller metal inserts.

    Can I use just one of the 4 slotted nuts on the outside of the wheel bearing and that be enough to hold the rotor on? Or do I need more?

    Also one of the 4 slotted nuts looks kinda messed up - it seems like when I took it all apart though that it made sense. Kinda vague sorry.

    The next thing that I will need help on in person is fabbing an upper track bar bracket - did I ever get any takers?
    Last edited by Seth; 04-11-2006 at 06:40 PM.
    Seth Stewart '04
    2000 Suburban DD
    1995 F150 SAS - Needs more work to sell
    1998 GMC pickup - sold
    2003 Yukon XL - wrecked/motor donor
    1975 Scout - TBD
    1976 Scout - parts truck
    1972 IH 1310 dually - TBD
    196? Scout 800 - 302 roller

  4. #94
    Old school badass Seth's Avatar
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    List of stuff left to do - this is as much for me as anyone:

    Tighten steering
    Fab Track bar bracket and install track bar
    Find lower track bar bushing
    Install caliper brackets, spindles, rotors on both sides
    Mount wheels and tires on truck.
    Roughly align truck
    Drill last two holes, tighten all hardware with washers

    Later after I get the city off my back

    take care of spring bow
    put in axle shafts
    get front gears set
    get rear gears and locker installed
    shackle flip in rear
    install all 4 shocks
    Install hubs
    Install brakes - get new calipers
    replace ball joint
    replace wheel bearings?
    Seth Stewart '04
    2000 Suburban DD
    1995 F150 SAS - Needs more work to sell
    1998 GMC pickup - sold
    2003 Yukon XL - wrecked/motor donor
    1975 Scout - TBD
    1976 Scout - parts truck
    1972 IH 1310 dually - TBD
    196? Scout 800 - 302 roller

  5. #95
    Old school badass Seth's Avatar
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    pics
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    Seth Stewart '04
    2000 Suburban DD
    1995 F150 SAS - Needs more work to sell
    1998 GMC pickup - sold
    2003 Yukon XL - wrecked/motor donor
    1975 Scout - TBD
    1976 Scout - parts truck
    1972 IH 1310 dually - TBD
    196? Scout 800 - 302 roller

  6. #96
    Old school badass Seth's Avatar
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    the first and second are from a while back - the third from today - the 4th and 5th are the tie rod stuff i was talking about
    Seth Stewart '04
    2000 Suburban DD
    1995 F150 SAS - Needs more work to sell
    1998 GMC pickup - sold
    2003 Yukon XL - wrecked/motor donor
    1975 Scout - TBD
    1976 Scout - parts truck
    1972 IH 1310 dually - TBD
    196? Scout 800 - 302 roller

  7. #97
    Old school badass Seth's Avatar
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    Last edited by Seth; 04-11-2006 at 09:34 PM.
    Seth Stewart '04
    2000 Suburban DD
    1995 F150 SAS - Needs more work to sell
    1998 GMC pickup - sold
    2003 Yukon XL - wrecked/motor donor
    1975 Scout - TBD
    1976 Scout - parts truck
    1972 IH 1310 dually - TBD
    196? Scout 800 - 302 roller

  8. #98
    Old school badass Seth's Avatar
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    Apr 2002
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    last ones from today
    Attached Images Attached Images      
    Seth Stewart '04
    2000 Suburban DD
    1995 F150 SAS - Needs more work to sell
    1998 GMC pickup - sold
    2003 Yukon XL - wrecked/motor donor
    1975 Scout - TBD
    1976 Scout - parts truck
    1972 IH 1310 dually - TBD
    196? Scout 800 - 302 roller

  9. #99
    Old school badass Seth's Avatar
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    Apr 2002
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    anyone? anyone? ...the great depression
    Seth Stewart '04
    2000 Suburban DD
    1995 F150 SAS - Needs more work to sell
    1998 GMC pickup - sold
    2003 Yukon XL - wrecked/motor donor
    1975 Scout - TBD
    1976 Scout - parts truck
    1972 IH 1310 dually - TBD
    196? Scout 800 - 302 roller

  10. #100
    sprayin' the house down CheapJeep's Avatar
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    Good progress. Nice slinky coils.
    1974 CJ5-The BarnBurner

    Quote Originally Posted by stx4wheeler View Post
    Robbie is the Charlie Daniels of the super swamper.

  11. #101
    Yo soy tu papa! Doug Krebs's Avatar
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    holy ****, can i bring you some jackstands?

    Looking good!
    1988 Blazer...RIP

  12. #102
    True Hollywood Stry
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    i wish i could help seth but i got a test tomorrow and one thursday, and i am taking off and going home for the weekend after that, the only thing i can help you with is i have a old trac bar bracket that i have in my truck somewhere. You could just weld it onto the bottom of your frame to get you rolling, and driving to get the inspector off your back, then re do it a little better later.

    use a ratchet strap to pull the axle back where it need to be as well.
    Last edited by stx4wheeler; 04-11-2006 at 10:05 PM.
    He who dies with the most **** wins, after seeing your collection you are in the lead no doubt!

  13. #103
    D-FENS agjohn02's Avatar
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    dont feel like reading it all, but im free tomorrow(wed.) give me a call if you need a hand.

    361-460-1251

  14. #104
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    Use $2.5 ratchet straps around the center of the springs and the frame to pull them more straight for now.

  15. #105
    Old school badass Seth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seth
    Now for some questions:

    How much of the tie rod "shaft" should there be between the knuckle and the tie rod body? (or the TRE and pitman arm, or TRE and center link) I just want to make sure that they are seating in there enough.

    One tie rod end (the old new one that came with the axle) has a spacer and two thin washers and one thick washer. All the new ones came with just a boot, zerk, and cottor pin. Does it matter what I use where? I would like to use the boots on all of them including the old one if I can and not use the spacer at all.

    The nuts that hold the spindle on are tapered like a lug nut - should that taper go in to center something? or does the flat side go in?

    I only checked one wheel bearing, but it feels really loose, is there any way to explain on here how to tell if one is bad? Keep in mind I will be taking this thing apart at least once more, and maybe more than once more, to put in new bearings, replace one of the balljoints, and get the brakes sorted out.

    Also - I didn't see any bushings in my box of stuff that looked like they went around the big bolt on the axle for the track bar - anybody know anything about that? The ones I have are both rubber with smaller metal inserts.

    Can I use just one of the 4 slotted nuts on the outside of the wheel bearing and that be enough to hold the rotor on? Or do I need more?

    Also one of the 4 slotted nuts looks kinda messed up - it seems like when I took it all apart though that it made sense. Kinda vague sorry.

    The next thing that I will need help on in person is fabbing an upper track bar bracket - did I ever get any takers?
    anybody?

    getting the springs straight is under control
    Seth Stewart '04
    2000 Suburban DD
    1995 F150 SAS - Needs more work to sell
    1998 GMC pickup - sold
    2003 Yukon XL - wrecked/motor donor
    1975 Scout - TBD
    1976 Scout - parts truck
    1972 IH 1310 dually - TBD
    196? Scout 800 - 302 roller

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