Beast from da Middle East

[AggieTJ2007]

Done, where do i pay for them

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Who's got my brake line flare tool?

**** To Do List (updated AGAIN!) :

• New Master Cylinder for brakes and plumb in 2nd line lock(or at least get them bled long enough to install hydroboost)
• Install new clutch slave and bleed
• Install new fan belt
• Reseal diff covers
• Replace bolts for front of bed. (.5 hour)
• Groove boggers.
• Clearance rear fenders.
• Mount front tires on recentered rims.

just cleaning up the list of **** to do.

Parts Needed:
Diff Seals
Rope thimble for 7/16" wire rope

[DRAGOONRANCH]

this too

http://www.tamor.org/forums/showthre...ighlight=cs144

[AggieTJ2007]

I think I have it in the garage, I am not sure I will have to check

[Reckless]

I think I have it in the garage, I am not sure I will have to check

you should have it, cause i had it and gave it to sharpe to give to you

[AggieTJ2007]

yeah its there along with the other pile of eds stuff

[DRAGOONRANCH]

ok, good. I will worry about the brakes later then (other than gettng them bled, I am pretty sure I will need them on helicopter hill!).

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Got the clutch linkage worked out I believe. Going to bleed the brakes tomorrow and install the CS144 I picked up at the store today. May try to swap the single wheel hubs on if I can get bearings for it.

(95 Caddy, 4.9L, heated windows)

[bcolman]

(95 Caddy, 4.9L, heated windows)

is that in reference to the cs144 or your next project?

[TexTJ209]

Got the clutch linkage worked out I believe. Going to bleed the brakes tomorrow and install the CS144 I picked up at the store today. May try to swap the single wheel hubs on if I can get bearings for it.

(95 Caddy, 4.9L, heated windows)

You mean w/o heated windows right? As you pay more for something you don't use if you get the heated window one. $30 extra on rockauto, and both are 140 amps for ACDelco's numbers.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

is that in reference to the cs144 or your next project?

Next project, gotta keep my baby momma happy!



Yes, CS144. I forgot to research it and write down the specifics before I left, so I made a last minute phone call to get the info and that is what I was told. When I go back I will try to remember and check the price difference and part # for both.

[Sharpe]

Dont forget you need to clock the case 45 degrees.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Ok, thanks. I have been piddling around with the brakes a bit this morning and ended up pulling one of the front H1's (non recentered) apart because of the stop leak that was put in it along time ago and was making it a biatch to air down. I think I am going to head to town after I get the bearing and seal #'s off the 60 bible and go ahead and change the front hubs over this evening.

I may wait until this weekend when I head to aggieland to swap the alternators until I can get my hands on a gear puller if they don't have one at the parts store in lot..

[Sharpe]

You dont use a gear puller on the alternator pulley...

It has a conical wedge holding the serpentine pulley to the alterntor shaft. The shaft is not tapered but the hole in the pulley is. If you take the nut off and look at the shaft, you can see the ~1/8" thick end of the wedge with the split in it. You have to get a socket or piece of pipe big enough to go around the wedge but fit inside the face of the pulley. You then beat the piss out of the pulley and it will loosen the wedge free. Its best to put the alternator face up on a piece of wood with the back on the housing where the shaft is supported directly on the wood. This will somewhat absorb the impact of the hammer whacks and hopefully keep you from FUBARing anything on the case. Make sure the threaded post on the back of the case is not taking the brunt of the hits, its insulation WILL break. Then just getcha a normal v-belt pulley and bolt that ***** on there, it is just held in place by friction, no wedge involved.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Will the pulley off my old alternator work, or will I have to get the pulley from the parts store also?