for those of you who have, or are building a D60, what do you have in it money wise? A breakdown would be nice. Were there any unexpected costs? Perhaps something you didn't think of or know about until you started building one?
Oh yeah, I'm only interested in people who have built a junkyard axle, and tried to keep it somewhat cheap (sorry scott)
I will work on this for you tommorow at work...
Quick things...
Rotors
Brakes
Lug studs
Kingpin rebuild
Steering arms studs
I'll discuss price and other things tommorow when I'm bored
1988 Blazer...RIP
It really depends on what you need
which is the reason behind this post. I'm just trying to make sure I have a list of things to check on, and what to expect cost wise to make it useable. This would be a trail only rig, so I don't see a need to rebuild anything unless it really needed it. I have a basic plan right now, but I want to see if the cost estimates I have are goodOriginally Posted by fbronco86
As for my plans, here is a rough idea
Chevy or Dodge D60 with stock 4.56 gears
home built tie rod (in stock location) and drag link
single high steer arm on passenger side for drag link
hydro assist (I just need the ram, everything else is there)
Welded diff or cheap locker
35 spline throughout if funds alot at install time
A fully rebuilt D60 will run you about $2-2500.
I dont remember how much all he individual pieces cost right off hand but I know that is what most people who arent Kreb's spend on building theirs.
On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"
There's no need to fully rebuild for a trail only rig. Clean it, add your steering and locker of choice, 35 spline upgrade w/flanges and call it done.
that is the basic plan. I don't think I have ever fully rebuilt an axle before using it, including the one on my old black truck. I only replaced the seals, rotors, and trunion bearings on it, because I had the parts.
or weld your draglink to the stock one, pop the cover off and throw some 6011 at the spiders, pour the old gear oil back in and call it good!
My axle wasn't complete, it was missing the poly kingpin bushing and had some fubared steering studs. It was also missing one caliper. Being it sat in the junkyard on the ground, both rotors were pitted. One of them wasn't horrible, but it was undersized. I tried not to be a joo about most things and replaced somethings some people wouldn't.
Rebuilt kingpins $45 per side x 2 = $90
Steering arm studs $4.XX X 8 ~$80
All new seals ~20ish?
8 new lug Studs $1.xx ~15ish?
1310 yoke $30
Brakes I can't really remember ~180 ish for new rotors, calipers, and shoes
So I have at least $415 into it?
Most people don't rebuild the kingpins, but the top of mine was out when I got it and a couple years ago when I got it, I thought it was going under a daily driver. So I pulled the entire thing apart and ordered a kingpin rebuild kit.
Some people don't use the expensive ARP steering studs. Grade 8 bolts fit as well and people have good luck with them. I built my own steering arms. I also have an extra I fubared, but only 1 hole. If you were using heims, it could be drilled out. I was using TRE and grabbed the wrong endmill and made the whole a wee bit too big.
Things I didn't do...
Change any bearings, all of them including the spindle bearings looked good. Didn't change u-joints, they were the spicer OEM and felt tight. If I changed U-joints I'd probalby upgrade to the 35 spline crap.
The yoke was a weird deal, some of the dodge yokes don't have the little tits on the end that holds the caps in. I should have just welded them in since the klogger ended my new yokes life fairly quickly
You can see how **** adds up, so buying one that was under a running truck might be better although more expensive.
1988 Blazer...RIP
My 100% rebuild with a detroit, gears, steering, 35 spline, and all new everything cost about $2200.
good info there Doug. If I go through with this I definitely want to talk to you about that steering arm. David, I assume that price included the original price of the axle, right? Eric, please step away from the crack pipe
So far, I see no reason I couldn't afford to do the swap if I sold my current axles and spare stuff I have laying around. I may wait on the 35 spline stuff for a while though.
BTW, can you do a square driveshaft with parts from a domestic driveshaft? I know its easy to do with toyota stuff, but I seem to recall non toyota people having problems. If I could, it would save me money by allowing me to simply replace the toyota end of the front driveshaft with the stuff that came stock on the D60
David bought a bare housing with one knuckle if I remember. He pretty much built it from the ground up with new or used parts.
1988 Blazer...RIP
unfortunately I didn't make that up...well at least not the draglink partEric, please step away from the crack pipe
so how exactly do you expect that to work? Just weld my current draglink to the chevy draglink?
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