SAS: Towelie-Ban Truck

[JeepPhisherman]

Well, I'm bored as **** at the office and all my bosses are at on-site meetings, so I figured it was time for me to make a thread about my truck.

As it sits right now:
About as stock as it can be. 1998 IFS Toyota Tacoma SR5 with the TRD package. I've messed around in the engine compartment and done a few electical mods, but other than that, nothing.

My plans:
44 up front
keep the stock rear
front bumper
rear bumper
sliders
etc.

So far, I've picked up a 44 out of an 87 Waggy from a LHOR member in Austin that is pretty complete, minus a spindle nut and a caliper that I was going to replace anyway. I plan on building up the axle for a few month and locating parts before I begin the actual swap, which is scheduled tentatively in the fall of this year sometime. I've also bought some warn manual hubs from ebay for 65 shipped.

Currently, I'm looking at some flat top knucklesfrom a guy in Cali, drilled/tapped with studs and ball joints for 250 plus shipping; and trying to decide what tires/gears to run. I initially planned on 35's with either 4.56 or 4.88, but after reading through some posts on pirate and ttora, I think 37s and 4.88s might work better with the gearing combination, as I've heard good reports of the road manners with them and I will be dd'ing this truck for a while. I am concerned about the cost of stepping up from 35s to 37s though, as far as new shafts and possibly ctm's for the front and shafts and some sort of longfield for the rear. I had hoped to not mess with the rear yet, so I might have to stick with 35s until some breakage allows me to upgrade.


edit:
These are the knuckles I'm planning on buying. I've found other flat tops on eBay, but by the time I buy/ship and have them machined, drilled, and tapped, I figure 250 is worth it. Unless doug wants a project...

[JeepPhisherman]

For those visual learners...

[william_ace]

looking good man... lets keep it goin with the parts collection. 4.88s and 37s seems like the right combo. i like that idea...

[redcagepatrol]

I run 37's and the stock rear shafts - you should be fine

[tigweld]

I run 37's and the stock rear shafts - you should be fine

ring gears, now thats a different story

[uglyota]

with no tcase gearing that drivetrain will be just fine...
garrett is your truck a 2.7?

[JeepPhisherman]

its a 3.4


I plan on keeping the engine/tranny/and xfer case stock for now. theres not even enough $$ in the budget for the sas, let alone crawlers and new tcase gearing

[JeepPhisherman]

ring gears, now thats a different story

whats the deal with this, is busting a ring gear a common thing?

will using the thick gear sets help at all?

[JeepPhisherman]

Ok, as far as building up the 44 to handle 37's, what should I do there? I'm open to suggestions.

Shafts: I'm thinking I'm going to stick with stock shafts right now and just replace them with some USA alloys or yukons whenver I bust something.

Joints: Found a set of ox joints for $200, maybe can talk him down to 150, but are they worth it? I havent seen much on how they hold up and their difference from other joints makes me leary. If I dont go this route, should I just stick with some stock joints (5-260 or 5-760, heard they both had about the same strength) or do I need to invest in some quality joints. Not sure I want to dump the 200 ea. on CTMs, but a little extra beef wouldnt hurt.

Gears: As I said, looking at running 4.88. Are all the gears pretty much the same, or are some better than others? What about having them cryo'ed?

Locker: Dont have a clue. Not sure I can afford the 800+ for an ox, arb, or eaton, but selectable would be nice. I'm thinking maybe run an open front for now, so I dont bust anything and save on cost, and throw in a locker later. I've also been considering just running a lunchbox up front for now and getting rid of it down the road. Pollakkah is not an option.

Diff guard: Looking at either a crane, PSC, or FF cover to keep everything protected up front.
edit: do we get any kind of discount at FF? I'd like to support them, but damn their covers are expensive

[CheapJeep]

I think you'd be ok on not upgrading to chromo shafts as long as you don't get too crazy with the throttle. Same as the u-joints. Like your saying, save some money for awhile because the sas is going to cost alot up front.
I went through the same thing talking with Ethan at PolyPerformance today, when he priced the chromo shafts plus CTM's I almost fell out of my chair. I'd try not to break the bank right now, then if you decide or find out that you need to upgrade then do it. Just my opinion.

[william_ace]

i totally agree with robbie. when/ if somthing breaks. then replace it with upgraded stuff.

[eight]

I ran 35s and 36s on stock shafts and joints with a welded front. It worked fine. You should be OK. I wouldn't worry about it at all if you left the front open. You probably aren't going to wheel that newer truck real hard yet anyway. I'd set it up for and run 35s with a locker now, and in a few years after its got some dents and such you can cut the fenders for 37s or bigger and put in fancy shafts if you want.

[JeepPhisherman]

The only thing about running 35s right now is gearing. 4.56s seem like they would be right for a mostly dd rig, but I hate to put those in there, just doesnt seem like a big enough jump for 4.11s to make it worth it. Hell I dont, 37 just seem like more fun

And you're right, towelie-ban wont be making extreme runs until I graduate and buy another truck, which is why 37s seem like a good choice to make most stuff easily wheeled as opposed to 35s.


So, thats a no on the ox joints? No one has had any experience with them? (search is down on pirate...)
I guess I dont want my shafts being the weak link right now, so maybe 760 joints will work for now.

[stx4wheeler]

i would run 35's with stock shafts, and get a lunchbox for the front if you are gonna keep it as a daily driver. bigger tires only lead to more breakage, and more money in the upgrading process, or compromise and get yourself a set of 36 irocks. plus it is much easier to get a 35 inch spare or another tire if you trash one on the trail or something, so you arent having to buy another expensive tire for a spare.

[eight]

So put run 4.88s with 35s. With 35s and 2 lockers you'll be able to get yourself further into trouble than you want. Bigger tires don't just make small stuff easier, they make you want to try harder stuff. 90% of the trails we run can be done on 33s.