Krew Kab Klogger

[KrazyKarl02]

Here are some pics of the 60 swap, I say 60 swap, but it should be called the single traction beam installation with new winch mount, leaf spring conversion, high steer, hydro assist, etc..... swap.... It's taking a long time as work has been crazy. The steering is not complete, the bolts in the heims are just there for adjustment, safety washers, castle nuts, etc... will be installed, so don't bitch about that.

Oh the axle is a Ford Dana 60 with 5.13's and a lock right. Steering arms are Mad 4X4. Drag link hole is 7.75" out from center of king pin, tie rod is placed for clearance. Heims are 3/4". Outer shafts are chrome-moly, so is long side inner. Spicer u-joints. "Solid" diff cover, this thing is awesome, the cover was like $80 shipped, I challenge anyone who is looking at a weld together cover to look at this. Springs are Chevy's 2.5" wide with a full length add a leaf for wrap.

[KrazyKarl02]

Oh the rear leaf spring mounts are actually from a 1 ton Ford Stock, you may have seen them on Clarke's Bronco in the past. They are welded and bolted to the frame.

[KrazyKarl02]

Could you flip the angle so it goes up instead of down and run the crossmember higher? Maybe use some square/rectangle tube with .25" plate welded to the bottom for the T-case mount? It's hard to tell what kind of room you have down there.

You could, but this is not complete (nothing ever is), the idea was to tie the front, middle, and future rear cross member together and plate them. The plate would have a hole where the current t-case bolts are for access. This way the bolts would be under the plate and not rub when you drag it on a rock.

Is that what you were talking about? It is hard sometimes to understand what people are asking on the interweb.

[JB]

Looks good Karl.

[JB]

What bushings are you using for your crossmember mounts? Just some standard poly leaf spring bushings? If so, where do you get them.

[KrazyKarl02]

They are a poly mount, I think they are actually summit brand, I forget where I got them. I was not particular to anything, I bought them because they were on super sale. They have grease fittings, which are not needed, but since they had them I went ahead and put them in.

[KrazyKarl02]

42's!

[eight]

Is that a dumpster it is sitting next to? Wife make you clean up?

[KrazyKarl02]

No I did not like the color of the sheetrock in my house, so I had to do some remodeling.....

[davido]

Dam sexy! Maybe too sexy to drink Keystone out of now... may, probably not.

[KrazyKarl02]

For those unaware, at Alto my truck ate a distributor gear, again at Clayton it ate another one, it was hungry... The background on the engine is this, it is from a 1994 Ford Bronco, 351. I removed the 1994 Fuel Injection and put 1989 Fuel Injection on it so it would plug into my existing truck harness. At this time I assumed the engine and injection system were the same and all I was doing was making the change so it would be plug and play. Apparently I was incorrect...

Internet research shows sometime around 1993 to 1995 Ford made the 351 in the Bronco a roller motor. This is further backed if you go to O'reilly's in 1993 it is a flat cam and in 1994 it only offers a roller cam. Lucky me, I have a roller motor, crappy way to find out...

So here is a question, to verify this I guess I can pull a valve cover and look to see if I see the hydraulic roller connector? If so there are 2 options.

Option 1 - Tear down the front side of the motor, inspect the cam gear, if it is bad replace the cam (~$300), put steel gear on distributor, kick ass again
Option 2 - Pull distributor, put steel gear on, kick ass and hope that the cam is not damaged.

Which option would you guys go with? At Clayton Fred and I looked down at the cam gear and it did not look bad, but we could only see like 40% of it and we were a foot away shining a flash light down a hole? If I did option 2 I could cary a spare metal gear, the only thing would be if the cam gear shat out you would be SOL....

Thoughts?

[mudtoy67]

This is the dog bone the roller lifters use and spider that holds them I was talking about. I think if you pull the valve cover (driver would probably be easiest) you should be able to look down the hole the pushrod comes through and see this. If so, I'd go option 2.



Do you have the original distributor that came with the motor? Knoeller mentioned there may also be different diameter distributor gears. I didn't get a good look at the one you pulled Friday, but I thought it looked like it only stripped near the outer edge of the tooth? Like maybe the gear you were using was too small?

[KrazyKarl02]

I no longer have the distributor that went with that motor. I'm thinking a good cam inspection thru the hole and option 2.

[Fredo]

I say option 2 if you don't trust the current "flame heat treated" gear that is in there now.

[KrazyKarl02]

I say option 2 if you don't trust the current "flame heat treated" gear that is in there now.

You mean that one with the little chip in it....