Need Help

[BigRedFord04]

should i grab the wire while its running?!?!?? steve did that after a meeting one nite while inspecting under my hood...he jumped and screamed like a girl...it was funny sh¡t...thx for the advice

[87BRONCO]

I'd be willing to bet my money on a big vaccum leak. Look for big sources of vaccum (ie brake booster). Might try putting a vaccum gauge on one of the lines and see what its pulling. If its not pulling enough, a good way to find a vaccum leak is to spray a mist of carbureator/injector cleaner around engine compartment. Engine will idle up when vaccum sucks the injector cleaner.

Just an idea

[bigFAWKINranger]

Originally posted by 87BRONCO
I'd be willing to bet my money on a big vaccum leak. Look for big sources of vaccum (ie brake booster). Might try putting a vaccum gauge on one of the lines and see what its pulling. If its not pulling enough, a good way to find a vaccum leak is to spray a mist of carbureator/injector cleaner around engine compartment. Engine will idle up when vaccum sucks the injector cleaner.

Just an idea

i'm impressed. only has one post and already comin at us with some valueable tech info... some ppl on this board have dozens of posts and nothing valueable to say. i like this guy already.

[aggie06stud]

that's actually not a bad idea. you might also want to check all vacuum conections and make sure that they are on all the way. that's what killed my firebird awhile back, and it had the same exact problems your truck seem s to have. my uncle, who ended up being one of the pres. of NAPA said "always start with the little stuff and progress to the harder s**t once the easy stuff is working right". he's never been wrong.

[BigRedFord04]

Originally said by aggie06stud's uncle
"always start with the little stuff and progress to the harder s**t once the easy stuff is working right"

Thats what I've been doing...thus far:
Replaced: Cap, Rotor, Plugs, O2 Sensor, Fuel Filter, Intake Air Temp Sensor
Tested: MAP and Throttle Position Sensors, and JET Module
Checked: Air Filter, Wires, and Vacuum Lines
Next Up: Test Wires, Pull Fuel Rail and Test Injectors

I've kinda taken a break from it for now to TRY and focus on school...i dont have $$ to go anywhere anyway

[froader03]

Originally posted by aggie06stud
"always start with the little stuff and progress to the harder s**t once the easy stuff is working right". he's never been wrong.

great idea. think I had that one figured out about 4 years before I was legally driving.

[aggie06stud]

eh, you never know.

[froader03]

and unfortunately I can't aruge with that... dammit

[BigRedFord04]

Originally posted by eight
Have you checked if it has a dead cylinder yet?

What the hell does that mean?

[froader03]

what, like running on 7? or 5 in my case... think he woulda been able to tell if that was the case. please elaborate if you mean something else.

[eight]

Yep, that's what I meant. I just wanted to make sure he had done it.

Another thing to do. Unplug and replug every electrical connection that could have anyhting to do with it. Sometimes that will fix it.

Check the timing. Even though its not adjustable, it would be good to check on it.

Some bad things to think about. Burnt valve (probably not). Timing chain jumped a tooth (very possible). Timing chain jumped and the valves got bent (I hope not).

Check the compression. If one cylinder is way off from the rest, you've probably got a burnt valve. If they're all low, the chain could have jumped. How many miles are on the engine?

Sympthoms of a jumped chain:
Low power. Low idle. Backfire. The intake valves close too late and the combustion backfires into the intake. Since you have TPI it is not very noticable because of the "dry" intake. If you had TBI or a carb, all the air/fuel in the intake would explode and it would probably not run. Idles low because it is not sucking enough air. Same reason for the low power plus the exhaust valve opens later so the piston starts to compress the exhaust before the valve is opened. What happens if you keep driving with a slipped chain? It slips again. I don't think your engine is "free wheeling" so once it slips far enough the valves will all get bent. Bent valves break, fall into the cylinder, and you do the 5.0 H.O. swap.

Hopefully someone will shoot this to ****. Just what I think.

[aggie06stud]

i know that it's very possible to jump a tooth, but how wasily can you do that? unless the chain was worn to sh!t first. that's happened to me before. expensive as hell! hope...pray it's not the damn timing. most likely it won't, but you never know till you check.

[aggie06stud]

good thinkin. what do you think could have caused it though?

[bburris]

a locked up oil pump, in my case...that caused a chain reaction to put my Jeep in the driveway at home where it sits until I get enough time to do something about it

[BigRedFord04]

Last week I tried running a complete intake cleaning like they'd do @ Jiffy Lube or the like, running the cleaner thru a vacuum line into the intake...made all the white smoke and such but didnt help the problem. Next step I guess is to pull wires and see if it runs any worse w/o one connected. After that, pull injectors.