Need Help

[StevenAg03]

one thing that will be easier then pulling the plug wires off is to use a test light. connect the clip end to a ground(battery works fine) and then put the sharp end into the top of the plug wire on the distributer. it will be grounding out the wire and accomplishing the same thing as pulling the wire and you WILL NOT get shocked like i usually do. also it will be easier to tell if there is a change if you can put a load on the motor. on my truck and jeep it is real easy. all you have to do is get someone to put it in gear, hold the break and give it a little bit of gas. im not sure if you could have someone ease out the clutch a little bit until the motor has a load or not.....

[BigRedFord04]

I'm not sure I understand...why put it in the top of the plug wire on the distributor? what does that test?

[mark]

Don't forget to test fuel pressure.

-Mark

[StevenAg03]

the electrical impulse takes the past of leaste resistance....therefore when you put the sharp end of the test light into the boot on the distributer, the spark will go through the test light and not the wire. there is more resistance in the wire then the test light...

doing this is the same as pulling the wire off of the plug itself as long as you have the other end of the test light grounded.


¿Pregunte más?

[BigRedFord04]

Originally posted by BigRedFord04
what does that test?

WHAT DOES THAT TEST?

[StevenAg03]

it tests to see if all the cylindars are firing....when you put the testlight into the spark plug wire it should change the idle of the motor....

[Chadnutz]

WHEN YOU GROUND OUT THE SPARK PLUG THE ENERGY WILL GO TO THE BATTERY INSTEAD OF THE SPARK PLUG. THEN YOU WILL NOT GET COMBUSTION IN THE CYLINDER THAT YOU ARE TESTING

[StevenAg03]

Originally posted by Chadnutz
WHEN YOU GROUND OUT THE SPARK PLUG THE ENERGY WILL GO TO THE BATTERY INSTEAD OF THE SPARK PLUG. THEN YOU WILL NOT GET COMBUSTION IN THE CYLINDER THAT YOU ARE TESTING

are you trying to point out that when you put the test light in the top of the wire that the cylindar wont fire....if so, thats the point....he is wondering if all cylindars are firing as it is....

[BigRedFord04]

actually...that wasnt the intention of the test i was wanting to do, but will kill two birds w/ one stone. I was pretty sure that I'm getting fire on all cylinders, but was going to pull plug wires as per Mike's suggestion to see if one cylinder wasnt getting fuel (i.e. bad injector). That test will allow me to determine if it is really a bad wire as well. Thx for the suggestion and explanation.

[froader03]

blah, blah, blah... to check if you're getting fire all the way around spray something as close to the heads as you can. if it evaporates immediately, you're good. if it takes the heat from the cylinders around it to burn it off, you're not getting anything.

[BigRedFord04]

Today I wrenched on the truck for a few hours instead of going to class, heres what I accomplished. Disconnected the battery to reset the computer in case this was causing any problems. No fix. Checked wires thoroughly and firing order. No visible damages, firing order correct. Pulled the #1 wire off and it didnt change how the truck ran at all. Put that wire back on and pulled #2 wire...ran sh¡ttier. So...pulled #1 plug, its wet (appears oil soaked) and shiny, almost like it hasnt been firing. Pulled a couple more plugs and they were carbon coated so they had obviously been firing in comparision. Did the old screwdriver in the wire trick and the wire IS firing, but they're getting replaced (warranty) tomorrow anyway. Probably going to try to replace that plug too, but when I replaced them the 1st time, the plug on that cylinder was the worst looking one (oil coated and such). Then pulled the driver's side injectors and Mike helped test them, all seem to be working. Visually cleaned them off and put it all back together, still runs sh¡tty. WHAT ELSE??? Someone suggested a flat lobe on the cam. Rings on that cylinder would make sense for the amt of oil on the plug. I'm truely lost now. Thanks for the help today Mike, tell the woman I'm sorry for making your late and it isnt a reason not to give it up.

[StevenAg03]

hey austin, if you are gonna be in town this weekend you can come by my place and we can put a compression tester on it. that will tell you if you have burnt valve or not.


let me know...

[BigRedFord04]

Saturday I replaced my plug wires, brand new Accel 8.8mm's warranty thru Advance. That seemed to help a lot. I took it out on the highway, hesitation was almost completely gone and what was left of it I mistakenly attributed to the exhaust leak...so...in thinking that i had fixed my truck I decided to head to Dallas....bad idea....I got to Waco where I stopped to pee. When i got back to the truck I thought I smelled oil burning, so i popped the hood and the entire driver's side wheel well was covered in oil, along w/ the driver's side valve cover and a lot of the firewall. Checked the oil and there was barely anything on the stick. I opened the air filter box (which sits on the fender well) and found that the breather element is completely gone, my K&N AIR filter was completely soaked in 10W-30, and for the most part the filter box was full of oil. So i found a VatoZone, filled up the oil, bought an air filter, put it all back together and made my way to Dallas.....smoking the whole way . On the way back today I had similar results; lost a quart of oil per hour, smoked a lot, and got a lot of funny stares from people as they went by with smoke coming from the side of my hood. I made it back, and other than the fact that it smokes, the truck pretty much runs the same. I know the PCV valve can cause oil in the breather, but not this much, and its good anyway. Compression tester will go on it this week sometime and I expect to find a lacking on cylinder 1 (or 5, depending on how you look at it). I've been told by quite a few people its a bad valve/burnt valve/stuck valve...what all does this entail to fix? Would it be best to just have a complete valve job done and have the heads machined/reworked? What would I be looking at spending on that? Now taking recommendations for good shops, not necessarily in town, but people that do GOOD work. Thx

[mark]

I am afaraid that the symptoms you describe suggest excessive crankcase pressure. The oil is comming through the crancase breather, not the PCV valve. This is usually a problem with piston sealing which a leak down pressure check would confirm.

A leakdown test is similar to a compression check, except compressed air is used to pressurize the piston at TDC and the relative pressure drop is measured after a period of time. This has the advantage of locating the problem by noting where the pressurized air is escaping. For example, bubbles in the coolant would indicate a cracked head. Air escaping from the exhaust or intake indicate a valve problem. Or in your case, I would imagine you would find air escaping from the dipstick tube or crankcase breather.

Good Luck.
Mark

[eight]

A bad/burnt/stuck valve would not cause the oil to blow out like yours is doing. Sounds kind of like maybe your rings stuck bad or you burnt a hole in a piston.

I agree with everything Mark said.