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Thread: Fix this car...

  1. #31
    ill be your pickup man
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    Jeremiah bought this truck about a month ago. I found it for him in the Lock N Roll parking lot, owned by a guy who is big on myBCS(chucktheaggiejewler). It is a 05 crewcab 71 LS with the 5.3 and 77k. We test drove it and everything seems fine, but pointed out that the coolant resevoir was low. He drove it back to SA and the truck got up to 220-230 has he got back into SA. He added some coolant and just kept an eye on it. Then, he fired it up to go home from work one day, and it started ticking very loudly. Eventually it went away, and he drove home. The coolant was getting low also very slowly. He drove it to my house and back to SA for the Shiloh weekend, and said it was over a gallon low.

    Anyhow, he took it in today, and also did a little research of this own. Apparently the head(s) are cracked, which allows small amounts of coolant to leak out, eventually through the exhaust, and some into the oil.

    http://chevyavalanchefanclub.com/caf...4.45/wap2.html

    The shop also pulled the oil filter and found it clogged and sludge filled, possibly due to a switch to synthetic? I dunno about that.

    He emailed the guy, who we both do not think knew of the issues, to see what he would say, knowing that he really did not have to do a damn thing, as it was purchased as-is. The guy offered to drive to SA, pick up the truck, haul it back to BCS, and have his mechanic fix it at his cost. Very much a relief. He bought this thing so he could have something reliable, unlike the green truck or the $500 F150. We'll see next week what the shop uncovers. He thinks new heads and labor are going to be over 3k. I dont think it will be close to that much, but we'll see.
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  2. #32
    lowballing someone
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    glad to hear that the guy is offering to do that. he sounds stand up
    Red 81 CJ5, 35's, 4.10 and detroit, 4 to 1 dana 300, tbi efi, flat belly, cage, chromos and auzzie in front... sometimes runs. body damage to come

  3. #33
    sam_hodnett's Avatar
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    I would say more of a switch from synthetic back to regular than from regular to synthetic
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  4. #34
    Flyin' the Hindenburg 2.0 DRAGOONRANCH's Avatar
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    Long periods of regular dyno oil use and then a change to synthetics can cause this. The synthetics can tend to clean any build up out and it usually ends up in the filter. That's why I always recommend an engine flush when changing a high mileage engine to synthetic.
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  5. #35
    Registered User robertf03's Avatar
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    pretty sure the above only applies if you use the same brand. its not synth vs dyno thats cleaning the sludge, its a different detergent getting the stuff that the other brand missed.
    ...

  6. #36
    wash, rinse, repeat. sasquatch's Avatar
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    ****, mines low. hope thats not the problem...

    1976 F-100 Kustom Krawler
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  7. #37
    lowballing someone
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    its a very common problem with the 5.3's. they were over torqued from the factory or somehting like that. i knew at one time
    Red 81 CJ5, 35's, 4.10 and detroit, 4 to 1 dana 300, tbi efi, flat belly, cage, chromos and auzzie in front... sometimes runs. body damage to come

  8. #38
    Registered User tommy53002's Avatar
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    2004 Nissan xterra

    A/c stopped cooling while idling. If I revved engine, ac got cold.

    That went on for a couple months. Now the ac completely stopped blowing cold (blows hot air). Today I hooked up a set of gauges. Before ever starting the vehicle the gauges read:
    High side 120
    Low side rapidly increased to over 150 as soon as I hooked it up so I disconnected it.
    I'm ac ignorant and can't afford to pay for ac work. So what are some thing to look at to diagnose what is going on?

  9. #39
    Like my rock crawler? KrazyKarl02's Avatar
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    Can you hear the A/C compressor kick on?
    -Karl
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  10. #40
    Come and Take it BroncoJo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tommy53002 View Post
    2004 Nissan xterra

    A/c stopped cooling while idling. If I revved engine, ac got cold.

    That went on for a couple months. Now the ac completely stopped blowing cold (blows hot air). Today I hooked up a set of gauges. Before ever starting the vehicle the gauges read:
    High side 120
    Low side rapidly increased to over 150 as soon as I hooked it up so I disconnected it.
    I'm ac ignorant and can't afford to pay for ac work. So what are some thing to look at to diagnose what is going on?
    Did the clutch stop working?
    Born to Kill

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  11. #41
    Fresh Cope, It Satisfies! StevenAg03's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tommy53002 View Post
    2004 Nissan xterra

    A/c stopped cooling while idling. If I revved engine, ac got cold.

    That went on for a couple months. Now the ac completely stopped blowing cold (blows hot air). Today I hooked up a set of gauges. Before ever starting the vehicle the gauges read:
    High side 120
    Low side rapidly increased to over 150 as soon as I hooked it up so I disconnected it.
    I'm ac ignorant and can't afford to pay for ac work. So what are some thing to look at to diagnose what is going on?
    initial issue of a/c not cooling at idle sounds like low freon charge, but is confused by the fact that you have pressure.

    without the vehicle running, the high side and low side pressures should equalize. Why were you worried about the increase in pressure on the low side? This was not caused by connecting your gauges.
    Steven W
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  12. #42
    Registered User tommy53002's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02 View Post
    Can you hear the A/C compressor kick on?
    The compressor does kick in

    Quote Originally Posted by BroncoJo View Post
    Did the clutch stop working?
    Clutch appears to be working.

    Quote Originally Posted by StevenAg03 View Post
    initial issue of a/c not cooling at idle sounds like low freon charge, but is confused by the fact that you have pressure.

    without the vehicle running, the high side and low side pressures should equalize. Why were you worried about the increase in pressure on the low side? This was not caused by connecting your gauges.
    I was expecting a much lower pressure. So when i hooked it up and it kept going up i figured it was better to disconnect it. When i unhooked it, it was almost pegged and was still going up.

  13. #43
    Like my rock crawler? KrazyKarl02's Avatar
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    That is really odd, if everything you are saying is correct. Normally with a blockage in the system you would see the pressure build on the high side. I am not sure what would cause the pressure to build on the low side. I do not mean to be insulting, but are you sure the "low side" really is the low side? Use this schematic to make sure.

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    -Karl
    2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
    1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
    1965 Chevelle
    1975 Corvette

  14. #44
    Registered User tommy53002's Avatar
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    I am sure it is the low side. The low side and high side are different sizes. You cannot get the low side coupler onto the high side. I read that a bad compressor could cause abnormally high low side pressure. Also, a weak compressor could cause the problems i had of it not cooling while at idle. I want to eliminate any other possibilities before i go drop $350 on a compressor + oil + refrigerant.

  15. #45
    Big Baller 85cj7's Avatar
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    You automatically have to change the accumulator/drier if you crack the system open and remember to factor in the cost of paying a shop to evacuate the system.
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