Project Mongo

[CRaSHnBuRN]

well I finally got a chance to go get my D60 today. Its from a 88 Dodge with drive flanges. I'm gonna do like kopecki and run lockouts (superwinch in my case) on the street and light stuff, and use the flanges for the harder stuff. Its in alot better shape than I thought it would be. I may be able to reuse the brake parts since the discs are still thick, and just have a light coat of surface rust. The pads are pretty thick as well. I'll post pics later and get a consensus if they are usable or not. The studs that are used in place of u-bolts by the diff are missing though. Where can I get these cheap? And this thing has a pretty beefy tie rod as well. I'll keep it around for a spare I think

[CRaSHnBuRN]

btw, I heard there is a lifetime warranty on superwinch hubs. Anyone know if this is true?

[JeepPhisherman]

Haven't heard that, but I steered shy of them. There were quite a few people on the TTORA boards who had trouble with them in their 44's and 60's, so I just went with the Warn standards. Found them for like $55 shipped off of ebay, and I should still have the sellers name if you're interested.

[CRaSHnBuRN]

well, I would worry if I was planning on using them on the hard stuff, but since I have drive flanges for that, I could care less if they were high quality or not. I just want to know if I can warranty them out when (not if) I kill them. As for you seller, yeah, I would like to know, but i doubt he'll have a good deal on warn external hubs, since they go for more than 200 bucks normally

[CRaSHnBuRN]

[CRaSHnBuRN]

[CheapJeep]

Nice, now find me a dodge 60 too.

[JeepPhisherman]

Looks just like my axle... except bigger. My rotors are in the same condition, and I was planning on having them turned, guys at the parts store thought they would be aight.

[uglyota]

this is getting out of control quick. Axle looks like a runner, and a good deal.

Now take it to Bryan Iron and Metal and get your $50 back before that 4runner is reduced to a pile of parts with no hope of ever running again

[CRaSHnBuRN]

I think the 4runner will continue to run, no matter what. Now if its driveable will be a whole different question.

As for the axle, I got it from extreme axle sales on pirate when he ran a sale a few weeks ago. I still cost me less to have it shipped then what people have been asking for the D60s that I've seen for sale around here.

As for the brakes, I think I'm gonna run them. I still need to check the bearings, kingpins, and make sure the calipers are in good shape, but I don't think its gonna take much work to be useable.

I should also be getting my bodylift and hopefully getting it installed this week. Then its on to the sliders and other armor, then begin prepping the thing for the SAS

[CRaSHnBuRN]

okay, one thing I want to discuss is a rear linked suspension for this thing.

I plan on using TJ coils, poly bushings at the frame, and Johnny joints at the axle. Other than this basic plan, I'm still trying to figure out what design to use. Of course, since this is a daily driver, it will need to work well on the street, with no wierd handling characteristics.

One problem I face is the gas tank. It sits on the inside or the passenger side framerail right where the upper link mount would need to be on most types of suspensions. It also hangs down pretty low. I'm going to do a bodylift, and it would most likely not be that hard to lift it to match, giving a little more clearence. I could also move it, or replace it with a fuel cell, but both of these have thier drawbacks as well, and will cost quite a bit more.

EDIT: one thing I just thought of. If my lower links are long enough, and mount below the frame, they'll probally hit before the tank does after I lift it. I'll still smack the tank alot I bet, but a good beefy skid plate would help that

[CRaSHnBuRN]

okay, here is a list of links with the good and bad of each (at least to my knowledge)

Dual triangulated 4 link (XX): good handling, little rear steer during flex, favorite of the sheeples on pirate, fairly involved to build, requires removal of gas tank

Single triangulated 4 link (|V|): has some flex steer, easier to set up than above, requires removal of tank

Wishbone 3 link (|V|): similar to above, probally a little easier to build since the way all the upper link ends line up perpendicular to frame. Failure of wishbone could be bad, require removal of tank

Offset wishbone (|\||): same as above, but the upper link is effectively halved, allowing the gas tank to remain. Wishbone upper bushing must be stiff (like delrin) to keep axle from moving sideways and killing the gas tank (I may post a pic of this one since I've only seen it on a few toys)

3 link with panhard: 3 straight links (2 lower, 1 upper), plus a panhard. This is the one I know the least about, yet seems pretty popular. Allows the gas tank to remain, seems pretty simple and quick to build (parts like hangers can be prefabbed since there are no angles to figure out). I do have some questions about it though. The upper would have to be on the driver side, so how will the torque affect this? Do I try to mount it near the frame, or more towards the center (or does it really make no difference and just go with whatever is easiest). How do you setup a panhard, does it need to be parallel to the ground? I'm guessing this one has a fair amount of rear steer, but would one side do it more than the other since the upper isn't centered, or does the panhard stop that?

[eight]

I don't see how the dual triangulated is any harder to build than the single traingulated. The only difference is that the lowers are closer together. Well, you'd have to build a crossmember to mount the lowers to instead of just mounting to the frame.

I don't like the idea of an offset wishbone.

If I were to build another rear suspension it would be a 3 link with a panhard. I get the driver side front lifting under power and really don't like that. You get the same thing with leaf springs. With the 3 link you can eliminate that by placing the upper in the right place. I'll have to think about it to remember what side it should be on.

[tigweld]

rear depends on the pinion offset but it ends up about the opposite of the pinion to centerline distance give or take

[uglyota]

yes I think offset wishbones have to be burly to work. There's an E-350 or something with a gas tank that fits under a runner like stock with like 1" below the framerails

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...t=van+gas+tank