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skid plate?
Jonathan Tate
361.676.6466
2010 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 6.7 MegaCab
2004 Jeep TJ
1992 Jeep YJ
2008 Jeep JKU
2013 Ford Explorer Sport (mama's go fast car)
Your differential looks problematic.
'73 J2000 Thriftside Gladiator, 258/T14/D20
'81 CJ7 Laredo, 258/T176/D300
3/16" or 1/8? D60?
Seth Stewart '04
2000 Suburban DD
1995 F150 SAS - Needs more work to sell
1998 GMC pickup - sold
2003 Yukon XL - wrecked/motor donor
1975 Scout - TBD
1976 Scout - parts truck
1972 IH 1310 dually - TBD
196? Scout 800 - 302 roller
I think you might have oil pan clearance problems with the truss and transmission case interference on the skid plate
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Time will tell, like I said preliminary ideas. By no means set in stone.
I believe the skid plate will be okay because of the runners being 1.75" drop from the frame rails which should clear the low hanging np-435. As for the truss, the axle will be pushed 1.5" forward where the oil pan is shallower and will only come above the top of the diff a slight bit.
Try using alibre. Its got a sheetmetal feature and is more better than google sketch. Made in dallas tooo so you know its good
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Instead of starting a wanted thread and cluttering things up I'll just put it here. Obviously no rush on these items, but, if you have, acquire, or spot them somewhere else then please let me know. As long as condition is good and prices are less then retail then I am interested.
-Any 3/16" plate
-Any 1/4" plate
-Ford 9" 1350 pinion yoke
-dana 44 1350 pinion yoke
-Chevy 52" springs, the more leafs the better
-Chevy 52" spring poly bushing kit
-2x4" box tubing
-Ford 9" aftermarket spring plates and unused u-bolts
-1.75x.120 tubing
-37x12.5x15 MTR for a spare
-8x15 8X6.5 steel waggy wheel
-8x6.5 wheel spacers
Thanks
Don't worry about finding a 9" yoke, just get the conversion joint...it's common.
spicer 5-134x precision #353
BDR
I need some opinions and advice.
Facts:
Upgrading outputs and d-shaft from 1310 to 1350.
Running a 32 spline 1350 flange at front transfer-case output.
Non-cv drivehaft, standard length slip, about 36-40" long.
Options:
1)Run a standard 1350 yoke at the axle end
2) Run a 1350 flange at the axle end and buy a flanged yoke for the drivehaft u-joint end to attach them
Which option is better?
I would think the flange would be stronger. Not sure on this.
I would think the yoke would be better for off the shelf support in cases of carnage.
Which option is better?
first you need to know how much angle you need with your suspension travel, then make your decision based on that number