you have some holes in your dash. you should put some **** in there or something.
you have some holes in your dash. you should put some **** in there or something.
really.... are you shure
Red 81 CJ5, 35's, 4.10 and detroit, 4 to 1 dana 300, tbi efi, flat belly, cage, chromos and auzzie in front... sometimes runs. body damage to come
You don't need them
92 YJ
04 F-150 4x4
11 F-250 4x4
WTF is that a picture of?
-Karl
2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
1965 Chevelle
1975 Corvette
yeah i bet you had the 300 just hanging off the back
Originally Posted by afroman006Originally Posted by afroman006
there is no probem having a d-300 unsupported in a cj, thats how they were stock and to support one is not necessary. Mine broke because my center pin on the pass. side broke, the axle pushed back and bottomed out the front d-shaft, which simultaneously stuck the trans in gear and cracked the adapter. I checked and it didn't do any internal damage to the r&p, transmission, or trans.
a d300 still doesn't need any additional support. if you do a doubler with one then you do but just the tcase on the back of the tranny is fine as is
Red 81 CJ5, 35's, 4.10 and detroit, 4 to 1 dana 300, tbi efi, flat belly, cage, chromos and auzzie in front... sometimes runs. body damage to come
agreed but that is still alot of weight hanging off the back of an aluminum adapter and I don't think that a CJ was designed to drop off of 3 and 4 foot ledges either. Plus it is easy to support
Originally Posted by afroman006Originally Posted by afroman006
The reason people crack them is likely due to too much support than too little. I once supported mine too much, made red stuff come out. Couple aluminum welding rods later it was back together, and still is in my misc. scrap pile.
didn't get around to fixing the rear axle this weekend.
Did fix the d-44 cover. Put a sizable dent in it at clayton and can't afford a nice aftermarket one right now. So welded on a 3/16" strip.
Pic of the current state of destruction
Really sh*tty picture of the in-progess 'new' skid plate. It will be about 6" longer in the back and have an integrated anti-wrap bar mount. I'll get some good pics when its done.
Last edited by 85cj7; 02-07-2010 at 11:21 PM.
In getting new wheels but have a question. I am going to run 4.25" BS wheels on the rear but have the option of running 2.75" BS wheels in the front to bring it in and make it closer to the width of the rear. Should I do it or run 4.25" BS on both front and rear. I don't know what the total width is on the tires now but WMS is 63.5" in front and 60" in rear.