cage to frame tie ins.
cage to frame tie ins.
Last edited by 85cj7; 01-02-2009 at 12:22 AM.
they also tie the rocker guards to the frame as well.
Any plans on extra bracing?
Originally Posted by Fredo
My bitch better have my money...
Through rain, sleet, or snow...
My whore better have my money...
Not half, not some, but all my cash...
'Cause if she don't,
I'm gonna put my foot in her ass.
the plates and tabs are 3/16 and the tube is 1 3/4"x1/8" i think it will be more than enough for what i do and how much the jeep weighs.
Last edited by 85cj7; 02-04-2008 at 08:23 PM.
did you only tie it in at 2 places?
i tied the front two pilars in with what you see above. The next two pillars back -right behind each seat-sits right above a body mount essentially tieing those points to the frame, and the extreme back two pillars are just bolted to the wheelwell humps, those rear points take a little more work to tie in than the front pillars do, so we'll see if i ever get the motivation to do those.
these are the ones i need. uh my bad 1 3/4" tube.
i'm starting to gather information about high steer set up, does anyone have any preferences on high steer 44 arms. Also all the ones i've seen for tie rods are tapered for 1 ton ends. are there any brands that are tapered for stock cj ends?
And everyone seems to spank it to Parts Mike arms.
Yeah I agree, if you are going to go high steer, then go ahead and get new TREs It is well documented on the interweb.
Seth Stewart '04
2000 Suburban DD
1995 F150 SAS - Needs more work to sell
1998 GMC pickup - sold
2003 Yukon XL - wrecked/motor donor
1975 Scout - TBD
1976 Scout - parts truck
1972 IH 1310 dually - TBD
196? Scout 800 - 302 roller
cause thats what i have, are chevy one ton tie rods the same thread and pitch as cj ones? if so then i could go for some new ends anyways but i don't want to have to rebuild my tie rod and drag link with different ends. Coop did a good job when he did the ones that i have now, and there is nothing wrong with them.
Might be the same pitch, but prob not the same diameter. all should be easy to look up. google it. im not sure exactly what the current setup is, but alot of folks go for the one ton chevy stuff when they build steering. cheap, plentiful, strong, and still tres. If not, then finding someone to make arms with different holes shouldnt be that hard.
Seth Stewart '04
2000 Suburban DD
1995 F150 SAS - Needs more work to sell
1998 GMC pickup - sold
2003 Yukon XL - wrecked/motor donor
1975 Scout - TBD
1976 Scout - parts truck
1972 IH 1310 dually - TBD
196? Scout 800 - 302 roller
www.sky-manufacturing.com this is where i got mine. They use chevy 1-ton TRE's but you could maybe con them in to drilling them out for stock cj. May cost you alittle bit more $$ though. I would go with the 1 tons though. They are way mo beefy than stock jeep.
And its not that hard to make a drag link and a tie rod.
he already has a beefy draglink and tie rod that were on coops axle the thats why he doesnt wanna go one tons
He who dies with the most **** wins, after seeing your collection you are in the lead no doubt!
thank you someone knows,anyway
heres my plan sinse this is still my dd i'm going to be going spring over in stages,
step 1 do the steering first
step 2 front
step 3 back
so the first parts was to get the 44 knuckles all stripped down and ready to add on too, i did that this weekend. then i'm going to get them machined flat and drilled and tapped for the arms. Finally add studs, cones, arms, spindle studs, and balljoints, and finally find a long weekend and put it on. This way i can run it like this even though it would still be spring under.
if something takes longer than expected (which it will) i can always get around with ol' blue.
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