I looked up stock cj width and the d-30 = 56", AMC-20 = 54.5" so a difference of 0.75"/side. I am going to put the spacers on so it is the same offset as factory turning and hopefully a bit more stable with the 2" wider rear track width.
I looked up stock cj width and the d-30 = 56", AMC-20 = 54.5" so a difference of 0.75"/side. I am going to put the spacers on so it is the same offset as factory turning and hopefully a bit more stable with the 2" wider rear track width.
Originally Posted by jerryg79
there are 4 widths for amc 20, 54.5 is an early CJ one.
...
I have wide tracks as 54.5" and narrow tracks at 50.5". If I'm wrong then please enlighten us Flem. What is the width for a '82-'86 then?
you have widetrack and are correct... flem since when are there more than two cj amc 20 widths. early d44 and 41's are different but as far as cj amc20 there are only two. everything was wide track after 81
Red 81 CJ5, 35's, 4.10 and detroit, 4 to 1 dana 300, tbi efi, flat belly, cage, chromos and auzzie in front... sometimes runs. body damage to come
That's what I'm saying. So the 63.5" front d-44 and the 62" rear 609 will match the factory offset of 56" front d-30 and 54.5" rear amc-20.
Both the front and rear carriers are welded, so any argument pertaining to steering radius is irrelevant. Run the spacers if you think they will help stability, I wouldn't lose sleep over the idea.
She runs!
I went ahead and took the opportunity to clean/restore the fuel system. I drained the tank and cleaned the inside with some detergent and pressure washer. It wasn't too bad after all. Replaced the fuel filler hoses and fuel lines, fuel sending unit with pre-filter sock (which was previously missing) and replaced both fuel filters after purging the fuel rails and lines of the 13 month old gas. Re-fueled, and she fired right up. After letting her run in gear on jack stands for a while with no load she drove around the block just fine; or just as rough as ever.
The ratchet straps will work for now until I build the tank into the floor and built the new faux-floor.
I also chopped up the front sheet metal a bit removing a portion of the front fenders so that they follow the diagonal line of the stinger/fender support tube. I also shortened the front bumper by 2 inches on each side so that the tires have an unobstructed approach.
I also want to make the windshield (windscreen) removable when on the trail. I didn't want to have to deal with the hinges when they were on the jeep of fear of breaking the glass. But the torx head bolts sucked and I ended up welding nuts all of them. There was some rust underneath so I just rattle canned some spots for rust protection. I think Roxanne's 'trail look' is a good one!
Last edited by 85cj7; 07-10-2011 at 09:54 PM.
When did you get back?
-Karl
2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
1965 Chevelle
1975 Corvette
The 28th. Been staying with my parents in Dallas while job hunting and visiting with friends. Went down to CS this past weekend to get the jeep running and bring some of my stuff up to DFW. I'll be back down in the next few weeks to get the Jeep and move it to it's new home.
new home = Dallas?
-Karl
2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
1965 Chevelle
1975 Corvette
We will see, I interviewed with KBA EnviroScience in Lewisville last week and am anxiously waiting for a response. So, fingers crossed, yes, Dallas. If not I have some other applications in at firms in Houston, Conroe, and Austin.
Removable windshield is almost done. Stripped them down and welded up the mirror arm holes. Pins are 7/16" x 3.5" stainless.
how did you get the original pins out? I tried on my jeep but I couldn't get the pins to hammer out
Creighton, you have done stuff with that jeep that would make a goat go "holy ****!"
Well I took the hinges off first because I was scared that the hammering would break the windshield. Then I cut off 1/4" from each side of the hinge pin where it is welded to the hinge. This is two-fold. It removes the weld holding the pin in and it narrows the hinge area from 3 3/4" down to 3 1/4". This is important because the removable pin is a 3 1/2" usable length. Next, I cut the hinge apart by cutting the pin where the two pieces of the hinge meets. So now you have 3 sections of the pin in each part of the hinge eyelet. Then some smacks with a punch and mallet and they came right out.
Poor mans lathe.
I had to 'turn' down a 7/8" thin wall socket to fit inside some 1", 8x6.5" aluminum wheel spacers.
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