Diesel Truck Shiat - Per Cook's Request...

[AggieTJ2007]

are you going to leave it with with the SRW hubs in the front and just run 2 set of rims or change over the front as well?

[RCcola55]

Haven't decided yet. I would like to just leave the front alone, but it needs a complete rebuild so we will see. I'm also not changing any of the springs but I will add helper bags in the rear.

My kids are going to build the bed and show it, so it may be over the top in design.

[Sparling]

It's been a while since I looked into it but I think the 2wd trucks just need a new drw rotor and it's good to go. That or I guess you could also use the 4wd dually adapter.

[RCcola55]

I think I'm going to find a d80 to put in the rear from what I'm reading it the easiest thing to do. I'll look into the front some more, I have a 99 f350 to measure.

[Sparling]

I forget what year but the d80s moved to a larger bolt pattern (8x200) at some point so make sure the one you get has the 8x170 bolt pattern still.

[RCcola55]

Is it even needed? Him much of a different in width in the srw and drw axles? Can I put dual wheels on the axle I have now?

[Sparling]

Since you're building a flatbed I don't think so. The only thing I can see is the inside tire getting into the leaf spring if you run big dually wheels. The d80 is wider but not by much.

Wheels might hit the brakes if you use 16s. I'd find some dually wheels and bolt them up to see if they hit anything.

[Seth]

Sweet. Looking forward to seeing the result.

[tigweld]

my advise. build everything a lil thinner than u think it needs to be, it adds up real fast if u want big toolboxes in front and behind the wheels. the one im building would be way to heavy to put on the back of a 250, if i were to do it again i would make the whole frame/structure out of 1/8 or less and the sides 11 or 12 guage with press brake lip top and bottom, or maybe think about using alluminum

[RCcola55]

I'm thinking everything will be made thin and maybe even al deck. I'm not looking to make it a hauler just to but a nice bed on it and not have to buy a factory one from somewhere.

[sam_hodnett]

After 180k miles the front end on my Duramax is pretty wore out. Pitman/idler arms are shot, as are the upper ball joints. Lowers are getting there and my tie rods are just about done as well. So I have decided to do some upgrading on parts as now the front end is leveled and I have bigger wheels and tire. I really like this truck, so I plan on keeping it for a long time. The plan is to put Cognito upper control arm kit on it with the bolt in moog ball joints. These are designed for leveled trucks and they correct the ball joint angles. I am also going to order moog lower ball joints and moog pitman/idler arms with the cognito support kit. Im getting Rare parts G2 heavy duty tie rods and already have bilstein 5100 extended shocks on the front. The upgraded stuff is only going to cost me about 400 bucks more than going back with factory stuff, and this should improve my ride quality and lengthen the life of all of the parts substantially.

[85cj7]

I have the cognito upper arms and support kit. My truck is at 140K and I have changed the balljoints, tie rod ends and shocks out over the past few months. I still have a steering wheel wiggle and some wandering. I think it is the box. That may get replaced next.

I like the moog problem solver stuff personally.

[TdmayfieldIV]

Yeah sam I was in the same boat. I had to change my ball joints after 350k miles.

[Sparling]

I have the cognito upper arms and support kit. My truck is at 140K and I have changed the balljoints, tie rod ends and shocks out over the past few months. I still have a steering wheel wiggle and some wandering. I think it is the box. That may get replaced next.

I like the moog problem solver stuff personally.

Not sure on the Chevys but on my ford there is an adjustment on top of the box. You just loosen the nut and tighten the Allen head screw a little at a time until the slack is gone. Check if there's an adjustment on your truck.

[Sparling]

After 180k miles the front end on my Duramax is pretty wore out. Pitman/idler arms are shot, as are the upper ball joints. Lowers are getting there and my tie rods are just about done as well. So I have decided to do some upgrading on parts as now the front end is leveled and I have bigger wheels and tire. I really like this truck, so I plan on keeping it for a long time. The plan is to put Cognito upper control arm kit on it with the bolt in moog ball joints. These are designed for leveled trucks and they correct the ball joint angles. I am also going to order moog lower ball joints and moog pitman/idler arms with the cognito support kit. Im getting Rare parts G2 heavy duty tie rods and already have bilstein 5100 extended shocks on the front. The upgraded stuff is only going to cost me about 400 bucks more than going back with factory stuff, and this should improve my ride quality and lengthen the life of all of the parts substantially.

Don't get moog if you can help it. They are extremely hit or miss on their parts, it seems like a lot of people are replacing parts again after 20 or 30k miles. I've read lots of good things about rfk ball joints and tie rods. I'm going to install them on my truck when I get around to it.