wasnt meOriginally Posted by afroman006
The cores are aluminum. The first two I replaced were from Napa and the third was a GM part. $90 down the ****ter on that one. Andto whoever edited my title
wasnt meThe cores are aluminum. The first two I replaced were from Napa and the third was a GM part. $90 down the ****ter on that one. And
1976 F-100 Kustom Krawler
1976 F-150 Custom
1964 CJ5
BRILLIANTYah I've been running one jug of antifreeze and the rest of the system filled with distilled water since I've had the truck.
Brandon, I've thought about soldering the lines onto the core and may still go that route. It seems a little ghetto but cant be any worse than my putty fix.
Jimmy, I've just been running green **** in it, is dexcool the orange stuff that is supposed to be safe for any vehicle?
On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"
dexcool is the orange **** you're supposed to run in gm vehicles.BRILLIANT
Brandon, I've thought about soldering the lines onto the core and may still go that route. It seems a little ghetto but cant be any worse than my putty fix.
Jimmy, I've just been running green **** in it, is dexcool the orange stuff that is supposed to be safe for any vehicle?
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/produ.../aa052601a.htm
more then you ever wanted to know about dexcool.
I am not sure when they started the dexcool deal. But I do know if you mix them your coolent turns black and gunks up everything.BRILLIANT
Brandon, I've thought about soldering the lines onto the core and may still go that route. It seems a little ghetto but cant be any worse than my putty fix.
Jimmy, I've just been running green **** in it, is dexcool the orange stuff that is supposed to be safe for any vehicle?
So you would have to flush the crap outta it to change.
there are no more color designations. there is green stuff that is aluminum safe now. i doubt the truck in question requires dexcool. why do you even have a heater core?
Good article. According to it if my truck came with Dexcool and I put green **** in it, I'm prety much ****ed. It says in that case just keep using green coolant cause it is prety much impossible to flush all the old coolant out of the system and even the slightest bit of green will contaminate the Dexcool.
IIRC when I got my truck the coolant in it looked like muddy water so it was probably already contaminated. Anything that could contain coolant besides the engine block has been replaced since I've had the truck. I dont even know what kind of coolant it came with, I'll check my haynes manual when I get home.
On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"
I always ran Dexcool, but apparently I didn't flush it enough and it corroded through the aluminum...
http://tamor.org/forums/showthread.p...ighlight=tahoe
92 YJ
04 F-150 4x4
11 F-250 4x4
what year is your truck, and you can stull flush it all the way out. and refill with the correct stuff
Red 81 CJ5, 35's, 4.10 and detroit, 4 to 1 dana 300, tbi efi, flat belly, cage, chromos and auzzie in front... sometimes runs. body damage to come
Did you really mean to ask this?
can you sweat aluminum to copper? i've never tried. acid core solder may work although i usually use it for refrigerant lines.
1976 F-100 Kustom Krawler
1976 F-150 Custom
1964 CJ5
no
i think I will get my neighbor the AC guy to solder it up for me. You can flush the system with that Prestone Borax junk. I have used it a few times, works pretty good.
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