Nice work, it looks good. What's all that tube for besides a cage?
Nice work, it looks good. What's all that tube for besides a cage?
1974 CJ5-The BarnBurner
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
thats really not that much tube
Creighton, you have done stuff with that jeep that would make a goat go "holy ****!"
I test fit Ed's Dana 300 on my NP241 adapter to tell if what I had heard was true. Sure enough it fit with the exception of one bolt hole. That hole was very close to being in line and clearly could be elongated with a rat tail file and work fine. Even the alignment boss is the right size. After getting it cleaned up, I bolted my t-case up to it to check spline engagement. The factory NP241 engages 1.5" of the 4L60E output shaft and the new t-case engages ~1.125". The 27 spline shaft is around 1" in diameter, so I feel confident that this is enough to not worry about the difference. I ordered the STAK with a 27 spline input. This enabled me to use the factory adapter. $500 knocked off the cost right there. The low range is 4.3:1 for two reasons. I have never felt the need for lower gearing in the Scout with the auto and viscous coupling of the T/C and I wanted to be able to maintain good wheel speed in low range for the looser surface this jeep will see around home. The Scout crawl ratio is around 69:1 and this jeep will be in the neighborhood of 135:1. I bolted the drivetrain together and got ready to mount it in the chassis.
Last edited by agjohn02; 03-14-2008 at 11:41 AM.
This is true. I may need another stick. Anybody got one? 1.75"x.120" DOM
Here's the adapter with the hole modified. It is the one to the lower left.
Last edited by agjohn02; 03-14-2008 at 11:41 AM.
whats so revolutionary about the 241 having the same pattern as a 300? I think all of those round pattern NP cases share that pattern along with the 300 and a few BW cases.
the splines are different, so its not like its a free adapter.
...
That's my stool.
Boats and hoes
Stumble in to the liquor store
With a dollar-fifty for a bottle of wine,
I know just what I'm lookin for
Thunderbird will do just fine.
No, but its a cheap adapter if you get a 27 spline input for your 300 from Novak. In my case, however, it was free.
I always thought that was a grinder stand:
I always thought that was a grinder stand
I think it was a vice stand at one point too. Not anymore though. Brandon has learned the joy of a heavy table with a good vice bolted to it.
I set the drivetrain in between the framerails and raised the t-case up against the bottom of the tub. I decided on a drivetrain inclination angle at 5 degrees for two reasons. One, its a nice round number and will help with my rear CV joint angle. Two, at 5 degrees, the bottom of the transmission pan is level. This leads me to believe that GM designed it that way and it must sit at 5 degrees in the trucks. I also offset the entire assembly 1" toward the driver's side to aid the front driveshaft in clearing the 4L60E pan that hangs off to the passenger side. Without cutting the tub out, this left the oil pan, trans and t-case hanging down quite a bit.
Last edited by agjohn02; 03-14-2008 at 11:42 AM.
Obviously, I was going to have to cut out the floor some. After sitting and looking at the contours of the floor, I decided it would be easier to just cut out the contours and rebuild the tunnel from the flat part of the floor. This allowed me to raise the assembly up until the bellhousing was about 1" from the tunnel where it meets the firewall. At this point, the trans pan is just about dead level with the bottom of the framerails and the bottom of the trans mount is about 1/2" below the framerails. I played with the t-case clocking ring and got it up out of the way too. Close enough! The negative side effect is the intake manifold now sticks up above the hoodline. This is one of three inherent problems I've found with the swap. The other two being the deep oil pan and the wide set exhaust manifold outlets. The driver's side manifold dumps almost directly into the top of the framerail. The passenger side, however, will work very well.
Last edited by agjohn02; 03-14-2008 at 11:44 AM.
After I got the engine on jack stands where I wanted it, I pulled the tub back off so everything would be easily accessible. I originally planned to use GM clamshell style engine mounts. I put them on the Scout and have been very happy with them and they are easy to work with when fabbing up the rest of the mount. However, with the Y block style of the LS series engines, the clamshell mounts would not fit very well. I then decided to go with a leaf spring bushing style mount. Since this will not be a daily driver, vibration transmmission is of little concern. This style of mount is very robust and also easy to work with while fabricating towers and block plates.
Last edited by agjohn02; 03-14-2008 at 11:44 AM.
Although I hope to not have to work on this Jeep very much (crosses fingers), I didn't want it to be any bigger of a pain to pull the skid plate and service the transmission and/or t-case than it has to be. With this in mind, I decided I wanted the back half of the drivetrain supported by a separate crossmember, not by the skidplate itself. This is what I came up with. Actually, I did this before the engine mounts (ergo, the jackstands still under the oil pan).
Last edited by agjohn02; 03-14-2008 at 11:45 AM.
looks good john
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