85 Runner

**CRaSHnBuRN** · 11-08-2007, 01:12 PM

Dual cases are cheap to do. $350 for the adapter, retube the CV driveshaft for the rear, and run a square driveshaft in the front.

But if you want to run it on the road alot it will not be fun with just 4.10s. 5.29s are plenty strong if you go with a good brand and they are setup well, especially if you cryo them. There was a big rush to a few years ago to go back to 4.10s a few years ago since they were technically stronger, but in the end it seemed to cause more strain on other parts which lead to more people going back to the 5.29s. Its kinda a toss up really, either way has it good points and its bad.

**CRaSHnBuRN** · 11-08-2007, 01:13 PM

Personally I think you should put the 4runner body on the FJ frame and drivetrain

**uglyota** · 11-08-2007, 01:16 PM

Originally Posted by FJAggie07

Ok now ya'll got me all confused and ****. If I wanted to drive it where ever I was going to wheel and running a 35-37" tire I would probably want the 5.29's to be able to get down the highway right?

yes probably, but with a 35-37" tire and a Tundra you will not want to drive to wherever you are going to wheel. Get Bobby Long's or Polyperformance's cryo-ed 5.29s. You will also want a doubler. $350 for Marlin's cast 10* rotated adapter. Best deal in the industry.
What lift and hy-steer are you planning to use?
What lockers?
Hydro-assist?
Make sure to add birfs to the list.

edit: hmm seems like Feller and I have some of the same thoughts on this subject. Wonder why that is?

oh and congrats!

**CRaSHnBuRN** · 11-08-2007, 01:20 PM

Originally Posted by uglyota

edit: hmm seems like Feller and I have some of the same thoughts on this subject. Wonder why that is?

oh and congrats!

maybe becuase we've both built and helped build a **** load of these things and learned long ago what worked and what plan sucked. Hell I drove my black truck for 4 months on 4.10 gears, and was lucky to be able to even use the 4th gear half the time

**uglyota** · 11-08-2007, 02:18 PM

perhaps...

don't forget sliders and bumpers. I would say sliders are most important thing to do right away.

tell us what you're doing with the motor. Anything special or just a rebuild? Use ARP headbolts and put it on the bottle!

**Eckert** · 11-08-2007, 03:18 PM

If he goes 'pane! i call dibs on the EFI!

Also, where did $1300 come from for the doubler? i figure $700 after a adapter and budbuilt said and done.

**FJAggie07** · 11-08-2007, 03:50 PM

I guess I just had that idea in my head dunno...

ANYWAYS, ok first off thank you guys for the advice so far please keep it coming.

Marlin 5" complete lift kit is what I was thinking and it includes all the hy-steer stuff. I have a friend with like 5 IFS steering boxes just laying around so I will take one off his hands.

As far as the rebuild goes nothing special. I am tossing around the idea of a ceramic header too...

Thanks so far and keep it coming. So 5.29's or no? Yukon Gears or Long's?

**stx4wheeler** · 11-08-2007, 04:29 PM

if you do 5.29's i would definately get the cryo'd ones

**CRaSHnBuRN** · 11-08-2007, 04:43 PM

Originally Posted by FJAggie07

I guess I just had that idea in my head dunno...

ANYWAYS, ok first off thank you guys for the advice so far please keep it coming.

Marlin 5" complete lift kit is what I was thinking and it includes all the hy-steer stuff. I have a friend with like 5 IFS steering boxes just laying around so I will take one off his hands.

As far as the rebuild goes nothing special. I am tossing around the idea of a ceramic header too...

Thanks so far and keep it coming. So 5.29's or no? Yukon Gears or Long's?

How are you planning on using this thing? Trail ***** or occasional mall crawler. If its going to be on the road much buy the gears. Search pirate for the prefered brand of gears. Yukons are just repackaged stuff and you never know what brand you are going to actually get. Long is the guy to have them heat treated, but I don't know if he keeps them in stock normally or not. While you're on the phone with Long do everyone behind you on the trail a favor and order a set of the 30 spline axle shafts. If you go trail only, weld up the stock 4.10 diffs and go. Just use the money saved and upgrade the output on your rear case (long once again). That seems to be part most affected by the strain caused by not running lower gears. Also do hydro assist. Its cheap and easy to do and helps alot.

**CRaSHnBuRN** · 11-08-2007, 04:46 PM

Originally Posted by uglyota

don't forget sliders and bumpers. I would say sliders are most important thing to do right away.

eric is right, get some armor on that thing, or you'll end up not able to open you doors quick. Also, since a 4runner cab isn't that strong, stick a cage or exo on that thing. Rollovers can happen in the dumbest places

**FJAggie07** · 11-08-2007, 05:15 PM

Originally Posted by CRaSHnBuRN

eric is right, get some armor on that thing, or you'll end up not able to open you doors quick. Also, since a 4runner cab isn't that strong, stick a cage or exo on that thing. Rollovers can happen in the dumbest places

Will do. I was thinking exo, but more spring of next year then right now.

Yes this thing will be part Mall-Crawler, I am not rebuilding the engine to not be able to drive out to the trail. I want to make this a good trail truck (4 * capable) but can be an expedition rig too.

I guess to give everyone a better idea of where I want to go with this. I want to start the rigs life as a VERY capable expedition rig. I want to be able to throw a cooler and a tent in the back and drive to the trail, knowing I want to drive back. Now this will last all of 6 months to a year I know, but I would like to start the truck this way until I can afford the car hauler for the tundra and get into a house with a garage. I want to start out doing everything right so I don't have to change it later. It will eventually become a trailer queen but I would like to keep it for the first year able to drive to gilmer, katemcy, clayton, on it's own power (and drive back).

I am going to get some measurements off the FJC sliders maybe I can make them work for the runner (Highly unlikely but worth a shot with a cut and a weld or two) I may start parting out the FJC and take it back to almost stock to help fund a car hauler.

**FJAggie07** · 11-08-2007, 05:34 PM

They be in stock, for 170 a set. Cha-ching.

http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/

**agjohn02** · 11-08-2007, 05:44 PM

Originally Posted by FJAggie07

Si Gears have been known to be weak at 5.29's.

Why not skip that and double transfer case and 4.7's? The difference between $1300 for adapters and parts(i already have the second case), and prolly 400-500 for gears. It will get done I am just looking at what I want to do in the next two months. I have about 6500 total for this build so I am trying to keep on the cheap side you know?

so just go with a 2.28 doubler, for the same price you'll get a low range of 92:1 instead of 52:1

**uglyota** · 11-08-2007, 05:59 PM

you probably already know better than to mess with Trail Mart (Trail Gear).

I think the marlin 5" kit is going to be the easiest way to do all of that stuff correctly right off the bat

And definitely get a header. My thorley is one of the best mods I have done. Are you replacing the cam too? engnbldr cam is a good idea and maybe just get a new head if you haven't had yours done yet. Might be almost as cheap as having yours gone through.

**Eckert** · 11-08-2007, 07:27 PM

sliders are cheap. no reason to try to cut yours off and adapt them to the 4runner.

Thread: 85 Runner

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