oxy fuel weld it on?
oxy fuel weld it on?
Originally Posted by afroman006Originally Posted by afroman006
You think I have a torch? I said I had to go get a butane torch from Home Depot tomorrow to try to heat it up some...
are you in beeville or did you bring the 60 home?
"You know, this car is so fast, that giving Corvette owners this car, is kinda like giving an AK-47 to a pysch ward."
-Ron Fellows (Corvette C6R Team Driver)
This is the same one that's been sitting in my garage since I moved up here.
Hmm....guess I never noticed it while you were in that battleship in a bathtub phase with that CJ.
"You know, this car is so fast, that giving Corvette owners this car, is kinda like giving an AK-47 to a pysch ward."
-Ron Fellows (Corvette C6R Team Driver)
If you look at the kingpin brett is reffering to, it split, so he's a little past the cheater bar method at this point.
"You know, this car is so fast, that giving Corvette owners this car, is kinda like giving an AK-47 to a pysch ward."
-Ron Fellows (Corvette C6R Team Driver)
i know, but i think using a hammer is why people split them. just adding to the tech thread.
i cant think of any way to get that out without a welder. a monster easy out would do i reckon. maybe try to get a good grip with a pipe wrench and use a cheater. heat it up and spray some wd40 on it. it'll wick in better hot than it will cold.
damn I don't know how that didn't happen on mine. I was pushing with my legs and pulling with my back/arms on a six foot cheater.
My carrier fell out There was a good .030 of slop if I remember. I shimmed it with shim stock I cut out and guessed where to put it. It was a couple days before clayton. Being the front axle, I didn't think it would hurt too bad. I wasn't attached to the 4.10's anyways.
The bottom kingpin was all fubared on mine. It was gouged pretty bad from a bad bearing. I welded it up and turned it back down on the lathe. I didn't know at the time you could buy new ones for $40 else I would have went that route.
1988 Blazer...RIP
There's a thread on pirate somewhere where a guy used a grinder with a cutoff wheel on it and cut the kingping just above where it screws into the knuckle in order to relieve the pressure applied on the threads. You can do this then try a pipe wrench.
On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"
maybe its time to invest in oneOriginally Posted by bburris
1976 F-100 Kustom Krawler
1976 F-150 Custom
1964 CJ5
Pretty sure the gas can in that first picture is enough to get me evicted from my apartment, I wouldn't have time to think if I brought a hot wrench in. It's not really on the priority purchase list.
what a puss, there once was a time when you would change the oil sans drain pan and let it run down the apartment pavement to the storm drain. Where has that man gone.Originally Posted by bburris
To keep on topic.
Dana 60's are stronger then dana 30's, per my internet research.
Rockwells is where it's at now Jerry, haven't you heard...
Would a 1984 chevy k30 (i think 30 - the manual showed the 4x4 shift pattern and it matched the k30) have a front 60? its pass drop, open knuckle, low pinion, kingpin, and i swear its bigger than my d44 pumpkin. hard to tell without having them side by side. the Xcase shift pattern is straight forward and back, while the 1/2 and 3/4 diagrams shown in the manual had some left and right movement. I basically am trying to identify the drivetrain in this thing. I just got a glance at it today, but should be able to get a better look and some pics later. The rear looked like a semi floating 14, no huge hubs sticking out. the front hubs were autos.
Seth Stewart '04
2000 Suburban DD
1995 F150 SAS - Needs more work to sell
1998 GMC pickup - sold
2003 Yukon XL - wrecked/motor donor
1975 Scout - TBD
1976 Scout - parts truck
1972 IH 1310 dually - TBD
196? Scout 800 - 302 roller