Pigpen

[RCcola55]

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/index...6dfb8e926c3142


here asshole, do i need to wipe for you too?

[Sharpe]

Blankensh!t found some other website that had them cheaper like two weeks ago. You FAIL. Asshole.

[85cj7]

ha ha VICTORY.
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=SIL

i think this is the one.
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...y_Code=SIL-STR

[Eckert]

why dont yall just yell down the hall way instead of showing yalls gay love on here?

[AggieTJ2007]

is this thing going to be done by clayton

[Fredo]

is this thing going to be done by clayton

Well? (I never saw or heard anything about the current status)

[Sharpe]

It is 90% done. It still needs exhaust (my biggest concern right now), intake and some electrical.

For the intake, my original plan was to run a 90 degree exhaust elbow off the throttle body, then another 90 degree elbownext to the motor to have the filter chillin over the passenger side valve cover, all connected with silicone hose sleeves. The bend radius on the exhaust elbow ended up being too big and it didnt even come close to fitting under the hood or between the radiator. I have a silicone 90 with a much tighter bend being overnighted, should get it tomorow. Hope it fits. I would just run a short fat filter like Lynda's jeep but on the 8.1 the throttle body is angled up and my radiator is much closer to the front of my motor, so there's no room for something like that. Plus I need to stick a MAF sensor in there somewhere.

Exhaust will be done at the Rusty Muffler in Bryan. Hope they have a decent turn around time, dont really have any other options right now.

Electrical, just need to finish re-doing tail lights and electric fans, then loom and ziptie everything up. Hopefully I can get that done tonight after work.

Right now the motor is turning over easily and sounds good, but wont start. Flem and Robbie helped me check fuel (got sprayed in the face by ~75 PSI gas on the rail, yup...its good to go) and spark, both of which were there. The fuel pump relay was clicking on and off really quickly for some reason when the key was on, but not when cranking. The injectors were also not firing.

We finaly narrowed it down to the Throttle Actuator Control module. Its a little black box that plugs in between the electronic pedal assembly and the computer. My motor didnt come with one and I was not able to figure out whether they were a universal application or not through online searching. I got one from Doggets when I got my pedal but I dont know what kind of motor the truck it came out of had. With the current one unplugged, the fuel pump relay stopped clicking and the injectors started firing, but it still wouldnt start. Flem dumped about a quart of gas down the throttle body and after almost blowing Blankenships hand off, the muthafuka actually started. It ran rough as hell but it has no O2 sensors, MAF, or a funtional accelorator pdeal right now. With no pedal I couldnt rev the sh!t out of it, which took away a little bit of the satisfaction of it actually firing up. This all happened today but after it fired up initially and we figured out the problem, I had to go to work. I spent almost 45 minutes on the phone trying to track the right TAC module down. That damn thing costs $200 from GM and I wouldnt be able to get it until Thursday morning, not gonna work. Luckily Chris at the University O'reilly's found one for me in Houston and it should be here by noon tomorow.

I also lost all the pieces to connect my Art Carr shifter to the trans but called them this morning and am having them overnight the kit so I damn well better get that tomorow as well.

Its getting there!

[bcolman]

Exhaust will be done at the Rusty Muffler in Bryan. Hope they have a decent turn around time, dont really have any other options right now.

i got mine done at macalister and sons in bryan, i dropped it off noon one day and they had it done by noon the next day, and the price wasnt to bad

[JB]

Rusty did mine in a couple hours.

[davido]

Agreed, Rusty is quick, especially if you tell him the timeline.

[Sharpe]

Oh yah my front driveshaft is prety much ****ed. The CV at the t-case output is almost maxed out sitting at ride height. I'm probably going to end up running a limiting chain on that side to keep droop to 1-2." Sucks, but it WILL blow up the CV if I dont. My 1310 pinion angle also sucks. Basically, the front driveshaft is expected to blow the **** up eventually. I have a few spare shafts in the back yard and am going to try to whip up a spare square tube shaft before we leave, but at the very least I will bring the materials so I can construct it on site if neccesary. I think I'll try grinding the corners off one of the factory CV's I have and see if that helps. I'm not holding out much hope though.

I have a 1350 CV shaft that looks identical to my High Angle rear one but I cant use it without getting High Angle's proprietary output flange. And to use that flange, I have to swap the front output of my t-case out for a 32 spline Ford one, which I have at my shop back home. Clarke and I were discussing welding a kustom adapter plate onto my current output flange so I can use the 1350 CV for now but I'm not sure I like that idea.

[JB]

You have alot of **** to do in the next 2 days.

[RCcola55]

dont plan on being here before 2 as i will be napping

[Jackasic]

go to Rusty, best guy in town.

[Fredo]

Yikes....good luck to you sir. Kind of reminds me of when RJ was finishing up the power steering swap on the trailer in the campground in Las Cruces.