D30s don't have lockouts right? Which means that your front would always be locked if you put a locker up front. That would only make your locker issue worse on trips. I would definitely put it in the rear before I put it in the front with no lockouts. As long as you don't get a crappy locker you will be fine on the highway with a locker in the rear.
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
Put a Detroit in the rear. I would run one in any truck I own even my old 2wd f150 that rarely saw off road conditions. I would only go with a drop in locker of some sort in the dana30 and just have spare shafts. Super easy to change and only need a couple tools.
Jonathan Tate
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2010 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 6.7 MegaCab
2004 Jeep TJ
1992 Jeep YJ
2008 Jeep JKU
2013 Ford Explorer Sport (mama's go fast car)
I have two sets of spare shafts with hubs on them. One pair stays in the truck everywhere I go.Originally Posted by Shaggy
1988 Comanche auto, 4.0, 4x4, 8.8 rear trussed, Dana 30 trussed, SYE np231, Serious Offroad long arms, 9.5" of lift, 35's, lockers
Yea I guess you would be right. It is disengaged at the transfer case. The whole front axle has no power to it but is spining while moving.
1988 Comanche auto, 4.0, 4x4, 8.8 rear trussed, Dana 30 trussed, SYE np231, Serious Offroad long arms, 9.5" of lift, 35's, lockers
If you run an auto locker such as an Aussie or Detroit ect, you don't even notice the locker in the front when 4wd is disengaged. A slight rachet going around corners is all you will hear.
Rear locker's drive great on the hwy, not even noticable. They can be a little sloppy around town when they lock and unlock as you get on and off the throttle.
Last edited by AggieTJ2007; 02-04-2014 at 04:58 PM.
Creighton, you have done stuff with that jeep that would make a goat go "holy ****!"
I know but he's worried about putting a locker in the rear. Putting one in the front will make it ratchet way more since you can't just unlock a hub when you don't need 4x4.
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
I drove the TJ for 3 years and almost 50k miles with a locker in the front.
Drove with a welded rear for a year and a detroit for another year and I never had any problems with the rear.
Creighton, you have done stuff with that jeep that would make a goat go "holy ****!"
I'm not saying don't use a locker. He was trying to decide locked front/LS rear or LS front/locked rear. Since he specifically stated he was worried about putting a locker in the rear because of highway miles I was pointing out that the front would be more of an issue than the rear. I do think that a locker in the front with 35s on a D30 is asking for broken parts though it depends on what he's doing with it. Sounds like mostly beach cruising so he should be fine.
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
Rear locker and front limited slip is my vote. That's what my old bronco has it was perfect for road, sand, and mud. It would probably lack in serious rock crawling but the ability to easily turn with factory steering and not breaking parts makes up for it.
Born to Kill
I just watched a spider dominate a fly on the wall outside, i thought would would travis do? and i did the opposite, spider lives!
So I have talked to a few people with jeeps that have lockers in there d30. They have said when 4x4 is not engaged they are not noticeable besides the clicking noise when you turn.
1988 Comanche auto, 4.0, 4x4, 8.8 rear trussed, Dana 30 trussed, SYE np231, Serious Offroad long arms, 9.5" of lift, 35's, lockers
Well bit the bullet today and ordered my new rims and tires. Prolly going to order Ironman4x4 adjustable shackles, and front a rear lockers next week. Then taking the truck to get them installed along with the gears in the front axle.
35x12.50x15 Mickey Thomson Baja Claws
15x10 summit Nomad Wheels
$1500 bucks later.... That tax return went quick...
1988 Comanche auto, 4.0, 4x4, 8.8 rear trussed, Dana 30 trussed, SYE np231, Serious Offroad long arms, 9.5" of lift, 35's, lockers
You did all this work to make a pretty capable little rig and you ordered brand new 10" wide non beadlock wheels?
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
Yea I don't have 1500 to drop on beadlocks. For right now that money could be spent else where if I had it right now. The rims will get me rolling where I need to go just fine. Have a lot of other stuff on the list to buy before I buy beadlocks. Need a HO alternator BAD, The 61 amp alternator is struggling with just the H$ conversion headlights in. Then need to beef up all the charging and grounding cables. Would like to do a dual batt set up when I do that. Also Need to Replace the starter (its getting weak). Not to mention prolly going to have to have a custom front drive shaft made. I would have loved to have beadlocks. Maybe on down the road.
1988 Comanche auto, 4.0, 4x4, 8.8 rear trussed, Dana 30 trussed, SYE np231, Serious Offroad long arms, 9.5" of lift, 35's, lockers
You couldn't fit the tires on your current wheels?
Could have but I believe I have some one to buy the rims for 100 less than what I spent on the new ones. So basically I got new wheels for 100 bucks.
1988 Comanche auto, 4.0, 4x4, 8.8 rear trussed, Dana 30 trussed, SYE np231, Serious Offroad long arms, 9.5" of lift, 35's, lockers
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