jew
jew
FagOriginally Posted by 73bronco
The money can be better spent on other areas of the truck.Originally Posted by Reckless
Thats not a size you homo, and no. Again, the money can be better spent on other areas.Originally Posted by CheapJeep
On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"
new transmission
1976 F-100 Kustom Krawler
1976 F-150 Custom
1964 CJ5
Just fawking with you.
Sounds like you need a wire wheel or air chisel, and your favorite rust eater/prevention what have you, for the rusted exhaust manifold bolts. Seriously though, use the square tube to do the boatside then wrap it in some sheetmetal. For the front I'd make it look nice and use something beside's square tubing, maybe some 2" .125 HREW.
I wasnt thinking about using the square tube for the front, just the boatsiding. The front is going to be done in either 1 1/2 or 2" tube.
On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"
Well I've been thinking about my radiator situation for when I taper the front. The stock 6.2 radiator is HUGE. It extends past the opening in the core support about 6" on the driver's side. This poses a problem, because of the way the radiator is mounted. Since its offset, I wouldnt be able to narrow both sides all the way into the body mount, and that would look stupid. Centering it would be a ***** because the little ears that hold the rubber bushings in place are offset, I could probably fab up some new ones without too much trouble though.
On other option that I considered was getting a custom 5 or 6 core radiator made that is narrower, so it will fit between th ebody mounts. Kopecki seems to think I should make it narrow enought to drop down between the frame rails so I can lower my hood and increase my visibility, but I think narrowing it that much will make it too small to adequetly cool the 6.2. I do however, want to lower the hood if at all possible, because I cant see **** over it on climbs and am afraid I am going to run over my spotter eventually, and good spotters are hard to replace.
I was brainstorming over potential ideas, then I remembered that on C/K series chevy trucks (88-99, the body style like my crewcab), their radiators are 2" shorter than the older boxy models like pigpen. Since when I narrow the front the fenders are going to have to be kludged to the core support anyway, I was thinking of taking a core support and radiator from a C/K truck and putting in on the front of pigpen, then cutting a couple of inches off the large lip on the front of my hood to lower it a total of 4" or so. I can probably make the fenders angle downward to match it and make it look decent. The later model core support will require some ethnic thinking and a little fabrication but shouldnt be too hard. I might even grab a later model grill to stick on there.
On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"
rear mounted radiator? Not like you have much back there anyway, and then you could put your winch where the radiator was and get a better approach angle.
I've thought about that, but it would be alot more work. It is still a consideration though. The way the winch is mounted now, it does not hurt my approach angle at all. It is 95% inside the stock frame and sits about 3/4" in front of the radiator.
On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"
Is it really that hard to cool a 130 hp motor?
I dont know but I'm sure chevy put the biggest radiator they made in front of it for a reason.
On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"
the rule of thumb is one cube per cube of displacement so what im trying to say is that 6.2 is around 370-380 (im too lazy to do the math)cubic inches so you need a radiatior with the same dimentions. thats what they use in heavy truck so its should be the same. Its not the same with gas b/c diesel puts out more heat than gas.