is there an easy way to get a wheel bearing off a two peice axle. the hub came off the bad side easily so the backing plate was easy to take off. id rather not separate the axle and hub on the good side and the bearing isnt "pressing" off. im trying to not gouge the bearing surface on the axle so it will remain a good spare. tricks?
why are you worried about keeping a two piece spare that is only good for ONE side anyway?
"You know, this car is so fast, that giving Corvette owners this car, is kinda like giving an AK-47 to a pysch ward."
-Ron Fellows (Corvette C6R Team Driver)
whys it only good for one side?
driver's side shaft length: 28.5"
pass side shaft length: 31.5"
unless it's a narrow track...what year is that pile?
"You know, this car is so fast, that giving Corvette owners this car, is kinda like giving an AK-47 to a pysch ward."
-Ron Fellows (Corvette C6R Team Driver)
you have to take the hub off to get the bearing off... look how it sits on there. the only way to take the backing plate off without taking the hub off is to torch off the bearing. thats what i did on the one that wasnt broken but i was putting in one piece shaft. a good trick for later is to ream out the whole on the backing plate so you can pull the shaft without taking the backing plate and all the brake **** off the axle.
its a 86. i noticed the length difference when i got both axles out and beside each other.
the secret is to use an old screwdriver and hammer to cut the bearing cage and remove the rollers and cage. the backing plate will fit over the inner race.
so, lets say you were putting a lock right in a amc 20 with a warn full float kit in it. would you put the thrust block back in with the locker between the axle ends?
i bet you would unless the full float kit has provisions to keep the also from sliding too far into the diff
Originally Posted by afroman006
Creighton, you have done stuff with that jeep that would make a goat go "holy ****!"
thats what im afraid of. i put the fill plug back in and looked down and saw it on the floor. doh!
im working on the neighbors jeep and i was still thinking one peice axles. i knolw you dont need it with those, but these are truely full floating, splines on both ends.
yep probably need unless you do it the toyota way at put mar tacks on the slines so it can't slide to far into the diff
Creighton, you have done stuff with that jeep that would make a goat go "holy ****!"
what thread are the bolts on the cover? i want to replace the stupid torx heads with real bolts.
apparently ive found a combination that no one else has. warn full floaters and a lock right. its nowhere to be found on the internet. i wonder why?
ill have to call warn tomorrow and ask them.
I'm betting it needs the block unless there is a clip in the outer hub to hold the shaft.
"You know, this car is so fast, that giving Corvette owners this car, is kinda like giving an AK-47 to a pysch ward."
-Ron Fellows (Corvette C6R Team Driver)
warn guy says you dont need the thrust block. the axles have clips on the outside ends.
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