i dont know much about the gov locks, but i have heard that when they go they go bad and sometimes they take the housing with them.
i dont know much about the gov locks, but i have heard that when they go they go bad and sometimes they take the housing with them.
Originally Posted by Doug Krebs
i didnt think they would stay on for more than a minute or two? the solenoid heats up and disengages is what ive heard.
im lookin at disc brake brackets on btf, should i go with weld on? How much is a proportioning valve? and how much do you think calipers and rotors are from a 1/2 ton?
http://www.bluetorchfab.com/shop/pro...roducts_id=354
3/4 ton rotors $47.98 o'reilly's
3/4 ton calipers $71.98 o'reilly's
brake pads $10.99 o'reilly's
caliper brackets $45.40 ruffstuffspecialties.com
total= $176.35
plus brake lines
Last edited by agjohn02; 05-05-2007 at 09:04 PM.
Want me to come do it for you?Originally Posted by BIGJIMMY
All the conversions I've seen use a rotor from the front axle of 3/4 ton 4x4. It needs to be 3/4 to be 8 Lug. I'm pretty sure calipers are the same for 1/2 and 3/4 ton 4x4's.
Each rotor is ~$30 for the cheap ones and loaded calipers are ~$30 each. So thats ~$120.
For my blazer I used bolt on brackets that I bought from a guy in the club many years ago. The other axle I have also has bolt on brackets. To me bolt on brackets seem cleaner. I think the bolt on brackets are ~$60.
Look in summit for adjustable proportioning valves. They are under $40 I think.
1988 Blazer...RIP
why you selling out all of a sudden krebs? i tried to buy all that from you 9 months ago.
Do you get rid of the stock flange? If so I agree, because the bolt on brackets need spacers that can be goofy.Originally Posted by agjohn02
I do like the brackets I have on the blazer. I bought them from cody as he made two sets at the time. He copied some design that was pricey. It has a clocking ring that bolts to the stock flange. Then two little spacers and than the caliper bracket.
Most of the ones I've seen have 4 large spacers, and then the big caliper bracket.
1988 Blazer...RIP
It's the two axles I have for the buggy, which realistically won't happen for probably 4+ years. I'd rather have the money in the bank right now than them holding down the floor.Originally Posted by agjohn02
1988 Blazer...RIP
Originally Posted by Doug Krebs
yeah, i cut the flange off. ruffstuff makes the best looking bolt-ons though. they have a bend in them so you dont need the spacers. i cant stand most of BTF's stuff. its trying too hard to look hard. i like plain. its doesn't scream, "I BOUGHT THIS FROM BTF!"
My front linelock in pigpen will hold for a good while. I use it all the time out on the trail and I've left it engaged for several hours and it was still holding when I came back. Its just a Jegs brand electric one, nothing crazy.
On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"
My super secret rear line lock that was unveiled in the comp at TCC was the cheapest and easiest way I have seen done before.
Step 1. Acquire electrical problems under hood.
Step 2. Tell Rowdy of said problem w/ wiring (especially if he had anything to do w/ installing said wiring.
Step 3. Let him crawl under hood and proceed to break the front brake line off at the master cylinder.
Cost of flaring tool: 10 bucks at your local parts store
Cost of time to reflare line: 20 bucks (I really value my time w/ myself )
Cost of a Rowdy Special line lock in your first TCC competition?
PRICELESS
In rowdy's defense, the severe body flex may have been the culprit here also.
1. Had flairing tool for you to borrorow.
2. Wiring had to be bad fuse.
3. BODY FLEX
4. I'm Just good like that
how far back do you weld the brackets to get the correct spacing? and for rims, what kind of back spacing do i need?
Originally Posted by Reckless
1. The cost of a trip to town on $3/gallon diesel makes this a mute point
2. You remember the wires wrapped around the steering shaft?
3. No **** Sherlock
4. No argument there.