The Frawg!

[rockfrawg]

5.38s are the same price as 5.13s so if i wanna swap gears in both axles thats the route i'll be going unless the guy makes me a killer deal on his already overpriced 5.13s...dont see how i could regret going lower

still hoping to upgrade rear shafts to D70 35 spline, so i'll have to get a new carrier (spool)...OR...since the carrier stock in the front 60 is 35 spline, i could get thick gears and run that in the rear (welded) and put the new 35 spline spool in front. either way i'd need at least one carrier.

what do y'all think would be better? spool front/welded rear, or welded front/spool rear? Whichever will be Busa welded so should hold together, i think he knows what he's doing.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

I say welded front so if/when you decide you want a selectable or detroit up front to help turn, then you won't be out a spool.

[AggieTJ2007]

i second that

[stx4wheeler]

i agree. Welded front sucks if you dont have a good hydro assist setup at least. I wheeled the bronco once with a welded front and no assist it sucked.

[Seth]

[cox] frog [\cox]

[agjohn02]

[cox] frog [\cox]

slow are we?

[BMFScout]

he probably just got done knocking the bottom out of the ass he had in his bed the other night. It takes a long time and sometimes a TAMOR break to knock the bottom out of the girls Seth brings home!!!

[uglyota]

...the girls Seth brings home!!!

He did insist that what happens at the Bean stays at the Bean... except in this case he brought her home...

[JB]

knocking the bottom out :

I have a good buddy tha used this phrase alot.....should definetely be used more

[rockfrawg]

dont let them pick on you seth...you're not the only one who's brought something home from the bean...talk about it in another thread

back to tech...

I'm running welded IFS front now and its not bad offroad...does rack and pinion count as hydro assist?

i spent the day yesterday at the junkyards looking for D70 shafts but couldnt find any the right length...my 60 shafts are 37.75" and 35" from the inside of the flange to the end of the splines...anyone know off hand what i can find the right length 35 spline D70 shafts in?? if i cant find the right shafts i have no reason to swap the carrier and will just stick with 4.88s for now and pickup a full 70 rear to build.

[eight]

You have that odd 60. If you're finding 70 shafts for equal shaft length axles I could use 3 or 4. Are yukons still $150 for the pair?

[rockfrawg]

You talkin' about these??

http://www.ringpinion.com/ProductDet...px?ProdID=5422

http://www.ringpinion.com/ProductDet...px?ProdID=5423

[eight]

I think they use to be $150 for the pair.

[rockfrawg]

theres a thread on pirate about cross referencing the BOM# on the Dana site to find the right junkyard shafts, but I cant figure out how to do it. i posted the #s on that thread, maybe someone will come thru

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=568442

do all 70s use equal length shafts?

[rockfrawg]

fixed the pics on the 1st page...

finally got a reply on pirate about the shafts and it doesnt look like any 70 shafts will work in my particular 60, so i'm thinking i'm just going to grab some spare rear shafts. dont really wanna spend $300 on kustom shafts right now. a buddy of mine is going to give me a spare 4.88 R&P. I found a donor for spare shafts that also has a factory flange style pinion yoke, i'm going to grab that and see if I cant redrill it for toyota driveshaft pattern. also need to grab the emergency brake cables from that one, cant find the ones that came w/ my axle.

since i wont be able to run 70 shafts, i can save about $450 on the swap by sticking with 4.88s. I do want to run deeper gears but the savings would also be nice. If i were to regear w/o getting a spool it would only cost ~$300 extra and could just run welded F/R...might have found a way to save at least that much on the front axle, read on. I'm thinking that eventually I might end up with a complete rear 70 and swap that in for more beef, but gears for 70 jump from 5.13 to 5.86(?)...ie: no 5.38s. if i do swap gears i think 5.13s would be enough since the calculator i found said that 37"s and 4.88s would be equal ratio to what i've got now...one size deeper to make up for extra weight and req'd rotational force. 5.38s would've just been a little nicer for crawling since i wont be stacking cases or anything soon. I could put 5.13s up front to match and not have to regear if i swap a 70 in the rear. thoughts?

my other option i've found is to buy a complete 1984 F350 cheaper than the 60 i've got my name on, rob the axles (should be kingpin front right?) and hopefully a 70U rear (dana's website says it could also be a 61). take off anything else worth selling (xfer case maybe) and scrap the rest (6.9L diesel and auto). could probably make up at least half what the guy is asking.