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Thread: Jeep Mods. Round 2.

  1. #1
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    Jeep Mods. Round 2.

    Round 2 will involve bigger tires, bigger axles, lower gears, and more lift.

    Tires are 35x14.5x16.5 SSR. I know, not the best choice, but they were cheap, and I'm cheap, so we'll go good together.

    Wheels will probably be of the hummer variety. Will cut the runflat or maybe make new ones. I don't think there'd be much room between the magnesium runflat and tire and it would make them get cut easy.

    Front axle is a Chevy dana 44 HD from Cody's junk pile. 4.10 gears. 69" wide. I replaced all seals, 1 bearing, and both u-joints. I bought a badass $13 sand blaster from Wal-Mart and cleaned it up good and painted it. The carrier was sitting on the table and some welding rods found their way inside. I've got power steering with a slow ratio and I'll turn up the pressure. I may have to go with hydro assist. I ground the lip off the bottom of the housing so it was even with the diff cover, then kept going untill I hit the bottom bolts. Probably only about 3/8" but it is smooth. I built a little diff cover skid plate out of some 3/8" thick, 12" pipe. High steer arms are 1" thick and have a 1/2" spacer under them, I think this will clear the springs. Ordered some QA1 heims from Jegs.

    Rear axle is a dana 60 ff with 30 splines. 67" wide. Andy brought it from Louisiana to TCC and thanks to Nick for bringing it back here. Not sure what I'll do for brakes. It will have a Detroit Electrac. OK, I lied, it will be welded. Gears are 4.10. I just got it today.

    For springs, I will probably combine my rears with a set of YJ springs I've got laying around. Front axle will be moved 1" forward. Shackles will be 1" longer at 4" eye to eye. No reverse shackles. Plan on eventually doing TJ flares. Front shocks will be the longest cheap shocks I can find. So far, I've found 15" travel procomp but haven't checked skyjacker yet. Rear shocks will be my 11" travel current front shocks mounted at an angle inwards.

    Welder and air will also be finished. Also will build rocker guards.
    Last edited by eight; 07-20-2004 at 12:18 AM.

  2. #2
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    This is about where the tire will sit with hummer wheels and 2" spacers. That's about 9" of tread outside the body. I think most TJs stick out 7"?
    Last edited by eight; 05-04-2003 at 08:58 PM.

  3. #3
    Yo soy tu papa! Doug Krebs's Avatar
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    damn those are some nice tires...
    1988 Blazer...RIP

  4. #4
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    Not as nice as these. Just have to wait for them to get burnt down enough by a fawkin F-250 on the highway. Even our forklift is 4wd.
    Last edited by eight; 05-06-2003 at 12:09 PM.

  5. #5
    Old school badass Seth's Avatar
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    why run spacers, and what the hell is going on with tires? all i know is one set us dougs old ones, but what about nurning some down?

    Seth
    Seth Stewart '04
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  6. #6
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    I would either want to run spacers or recenter the wheels. It looks like recentering would be cheaper and better. I just don't want it to be as narrow as the hummer wheels would make it. And if I used stock back spaced hummer wheels, I have to cut off the stock steering arms. Would be fine, but someday I may buy a truck to swap the 44 for a 60 and sell the truck, and I'll need the stock arms. And I'd like the hubs a little more protected.

    First tires will be Dougs. Second ones will be those 38s that just got mounted on my little brother's superduty yesterday. I'm planning ahead. I figure with my driving the SSRs will last almost 2 years. And the 38s should be worn down enough that he'll want to replace them by that time.
    Last edited by eight; 01-23-2004 at 03:17 PM.

  7. #7
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    Well. For the second time now that I've wanted to go get some hummer wheels, the guy only has 1 in stock. Wheels are $50 each. Mag runflats are $25 each. Rubber ones are free. The rubber ones are better in that they're not as likely to cut the tire, right? And I can cut the runflat part off and just use the bead lock with the rubber ones too?

    Anybody know where else I can get these wheels localishly? Like in Houston, or San Antonio area.

  8. #8
    user friendly Cajun's Avatar
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    I've never heard of anyone having a problem with the Mg runflats cutting the tire. Of course, you'd never have to worry about the rubber ones doing that, but they are CONSIDERABLY heavier than the Mg ones--I have a set of both. I guess that the extra weight could be partially attributed to the 12 bolt wheels, but I wouldn't think that would be the case. If weight is a concern go Mg, or cut the rubber ones down.

    Or, sell the rubber ones on Ebay and buy the PVC beadlocks from USA6x6.

  9. #9
    Krawler68
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    >> >5 hummer rims and 4 hummer tires, new hardware and o-rings for rims -
    >>$350.00 takes it all.

    In San Antone...


    hotrod069@mail.ev1.net

  10. #10
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    Thanks, I sent him an email. But I think that set was for sale on Colorado K5 and sold, maybe not.

  11. #11
    Fresh Cope, It Satisfies! StevenAg03's Avatar
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    are you even gonna be able to put the runflats inside the 35" SSR's? arent the runflats designed around a 37" tire?
    Steven W
    02 Dodge 2500
    82 CJ-7 - sitting in a field...

    "....Your theory is f*cked up like a football bat...."

  12. #12
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    I will cut the runflats off, as mentioned in earlier posts. But they would fit.

  13. #13
    aggielr
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    don't try and grind on the magnesium ones

  14. #14
    Registered User robertf03's Avatar
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    Originally posted by aggielr
    don't try and grind on the magnesium ones
    it'll just glaze the grinding disc since its a non ferrous metal .

    that stuffs gotta be a lot hotter than that before it goes up.

    BTW. Aluminum and steel (especially steel wool) do the same thing, didnt you experiment with fire when you were a kid

  15. #15
    aggielr
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    yea i did, but i was readin somewhere that someone was grindin it and it went up in flames and they weren't expecting it and didn't get to the fire ext. fast enough

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