yup almost all other cleaners leave a residue that f's up tig, I clean everything I weld with thinner, acetone, or some mineral spirits variant
yup almost all other cleaners leave a residue that f's up tig, I clean everything I weld with thinner, acetone, or some mineral spirits variant
Last edited by tigweld; 04-28-2009 at 02:28 PM.
My original transmission case was welded back together with a stick. It held.
i was think grind the crack out clean it up and weld it up with a spool gun
Ryan Clarke
(214)695-7901
I finally finished getting the transmission pulled yesterday. The empty space in the tailhousing didnt go as far up into the trans as I thought so it looks like there might actually be some important **** under the crack. Now I have a few choices to make. Ryan Curry was prety adament about TIG'ing it due to the heating and cooling rate but to do this I will either have to pay a shop to do it or drag it to campus so Doug can take a shot at it. Clarke wants to MIG it. I'm not so sure its repairable at all without gutting the housing, and at that point its not worth the trouble to fix that case, as I have another one that the case is fine on but the internals are ****ed. So, options are as follows;
TIG current case w/o diassembly
MIG current case w/o disassembly
Take guts from cracked case and swap into uncracked case
Say ****itall and find another working take-out trans
I have never messed with the internals of a transmission beyond fluid and filter changes so swapping the guts over is a little intimidating, but at least I would be able to disassemble to uncracked case first to see how everything goes together.
On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"
jeepindoug on pirate wrote a rad play-by-play for rebuilding a th400 a long time ago. Maybe it was in his malvado grande buggy build?
Originally Posted by Shaggy
I'd say you'd have to disassemble it or it would be a waste of time. I'm not master of TIGing aluminum, but I know it needs to be clean on both sides and oil free. I'm not even sure I'd want to waste my time if it wasn't disassembled.
How much is a new case? If you don't want to mess with swapping the internals have you asked a shop how much it would be?
How much is your time worth at this point. If it's welded, put back in, weld fails, have to take it back out and repeat?
1988 Blazer...RIP
It "only" took about 4 hours total to pull it out, obviously re-installing will take a little longer. At this point I am leaning toward swapping the good guts into the good case. I do actually want to try my hand at rebuilding an auto, and this seems like a good opportunity. Since both transmissions are worthless as is, if I FUBAR it in the end I'll only be out a little time and it will still be a good learning experience. So, with that in mind, thoughts on a reverse manual valve body...
On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"
yes yes yes 1>N>R=kickass
Only thing that would suck about reverse manual is having to remember to down shift from 2nd/3rd when you stop. We had a customer at Eaker's who would bring his Torino in about every six months for a trans rebuild cause he would have a few beers (a lot) and then drive around in 3rd.
BDR
reverse manual is much easier to adjust if you are using a aftermarket type shifter.
make sure you get one with atleast 1st gear compression braking maybe even 2nd, most don't do this and for any thing other than a rockcrawler I woould recommend no com. braking it suck's on the street but needed for crawlin.
How does the compression braking work on these valve bodies? In other words what else does it do besides hold 1st or hold 2nd gear (which is what a manual vb would be doing anyway right)?
BDR
Yes I was deffinately planning on one with compression braking. Pigpen will see a little street time but will obviously be mostly wheelin so I think it'd be a better choice. I have an Art Carr shifter.
On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"
there are a few different valvebody combo's they all do different stuff. most are for drag racing like t-brake(pro-tree and regular) reverse and standard pattern and ones with and with out compression braking and then there are the vairiations of stock ones so you can use Drive normally. there are also some variations for dirt roundy round cars that do funky stuff, but I don't know much about how those operate as I have never drivin' or even been interested in them.
I can help you with the rebuild sharpe. Ive been into 3 or 4 th400s
just spray some berryman B 12 chemtool on it and TIG it! It only causes cancer in California.
get some of that heat sink putty and stick it around the crack if you are worried about heat.
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