can you knock the ring off of the birf or grind the swivel pins to make it fit?
can you knock the ring off of the birf or grind the swivel pins to make it fit?
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maybe try these guys for a used birf too: http://www.classiccruisers.com/
Took off the Pass side hub tonight. I found the problem. broken/busted CV Joint.
So my theory is the CV is bad the T-case CDL won't lock for lack of use (probably never used), therefore the diffs won't lock and the Viscous coupling is shot.
this is why it would barely move and roll in park...w a center diff in the t-case it is like spinning one wheel in the mud in an open diff. the front and rear drive shafts are essentially like axle shaft out of an open diff. then you get to another open diff in the front and rear axles. then the torque will find it's way out. In my case it was all going to the broken CV. And when the PO put in park all the park dog torque went to the broken CV and the truck would roll.
No big deal about the Viscous coupling...I've read you can actually remove it and it will not change performance once you install a manual CDL lock-up switch. Not real great performing even when they are working. Evidently it takes quite a bit of wheel spin for them to kick in.
Once I do the CDL switch mod it will be able to lock in high and low like a rover.
Speaking of rovers it was de-ja vu working on the pig. weird sway bar set-up, closed knuckles, 4 pot calipers w/ pins holding the pads on the brakes, same dust shields etc. and hub set-up. easy to work on.
someone had been in here before. what's the consensus on replacing the swivel (trunion?) bearings? anybody know what the spring pull should be on the swivels once they are shimed properly?
what kind of grease do I use? I was thinking about using the rover one shot grease. It's semi liquid. eric says the swivel seals suck at holding back any kind of liquid and just pack them w/ axle grease. rover swivels are designed to hold back 90 wt (at least when they are new). if i put in new swivel seals and put in that one shot stuff would it leak out?
here's a pic of the mess. there wasn't a single ball in the bell. looks like ring (lip) broke off the bell
Last edited by Graystroke; 07-22-2009 at 10:54 PM.
just just regular axle/tub grease like eric said. do not use 90wt oil or whatever one shot is. be sure to pack the birfs too.
your rover terms confuse me, i had to read it 3 times to figure it out.
they are the "right" terms since they designed it first, right? what's confusing? those are pretty generic terms. cv= constant velocity joint, swivel is the thing that swivels back and forth, swivel bearings are what hold the swivel and help it rotate, CDL=center diff lock
here's the grease
http://www.expeditionexchange.com/ca...cat=263&page=1
I'm gonna double check the axle grease thing b/c these joints are full time. what keeps it from leaking out once the heat up @ 80mph. I can see "packing" them in a part-time truck that is crawling along at 1 mph
Last edited by Graystroke; 07-22-2009 at 11:34 PM.
I think the bells are welded on and they use split pieces of felt to seal the knuckle and bell. Thats not going to hold gear oil. That one shot stuff sucks if its colder than 80 degrees outside. I think I've got 130 weight or something ridiculous in mine. going to switch to grease next time its apart.
Are you sure there is a CDL in the transfercase?
rover switched to real grease sometime in end of the run of the closed knuckle axle. I think my 97 might not even be drililed for a fill plug.
Last edited by robertf03; 07-22-2009 at 11:41 PM.
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yes, it has to have one...has diff locks
it's one of those trucks that is set-up for "4wd for dummies"
here's how it is suppose to work:
4hi- open center diff and viscous coupling (basically a limited slip for front to rear bias)
4lo- when you select low on the t-case lever it trips a relay that elctronically locks the t-case w/ some kind of solenoid.
the lever also tells the ABS to turn off and also allows the front and rear diffs to be locked once the t-case shows to be locked (has indicator light)..mine isn't coming on.
yeah, probably. You should see the mess that 1 shot and 90wt makes. 1 shot is probably the grossest auto fluid out there. You can't get it off of wheels once a hub seal goes.
is the light activated by the switch on the shifter, or is there a sensor that tells you when the cdl is engaged?
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rover invented the closed knuckle axle?
anyways, swivel=knuckle(i think?) thats what got me.
the felt seal isnt 2 piece, the bracket that holds it is.
i also think the hubs are identical to the other solid axle yotas, so if you wanted, you could run lock-outs. and sell the drive flanges.
I think some dude named Rzeppa invented it. Rzeppa at one point worked for Ford, Ford at one point owned Land Rover. So yes, Rover did invent the closed knuckle
edit: looks like GKN, a British company, bought the rights from Ford/Rzeppa and manufactured "Birfield" stamped CV joints under the name Hardy Spicer and supplied Toyota.
Guess who else they supplied?
swivels are basically kingpins: two nubs, some bushings, and some bearings and stuff.
How do you get the felt seal on if its 1 piece? Does it stretch?
Last edited by robertf03; 07-23-2009 at 12:29 AM.
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no probably the 1930's FWD cord did
birfield= British...made CV joints for submarines
this thing is like an exact copy of a RR in terms of the front end. coils, Radius Arms, brakes etc. It only took Toyota 21 years to figure it out. first year for production RR was 1970 w/ this exact same suspension set-up.
there is a detent sensor on the solenoid on the t-case. way over complicated...
move lever to select low range (actually shifts t-case)
lever hits limit switch and signals relay (tranny control module)
to lock CDL and to turn off ABS
also sends message to diff locks that they are ok for lift off
you can modify all this stuff by pulling pins and reversing polarity on the flux capacitor
FSM calls for moly-fortified grease in the knuckles and birfs.
Here is a FAQ for FZJ80 axle rebuilding. I didn't see the knuckle preload in there, but on the older models you should have 9-12lb pull at the end of the steering arm. This could be a good baseline. Unless the knuckle bearings are in bad shape the original shims should get you to the right place. Also make sure you tap on the steering arm as you are tightening the nuts. It's outlined in the faq, but I've heard it elsewhere about the steering arm binding and not seating properly in the knuckle.
http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-te...build-faq.html
BDR