Yeah
Yeah
He who dies with the most **** wins, after seeing your collection you are in the lead no doubt!
Ryan Clarke
(214)695-7901
ATOR has a bad rep. I had a set, and they did me ok. I had to get another set when parts came up missing. I don't remember where the current set came from. Longfield sells some now I believe.
What locker do you have in the front? An allen wrench and mini flathead screwdriver can have a flange out in just a couple of minutes unless the wheel is in a bind. I am pretty sure most come with a ring that the cap will bolt to that can be put in behind the locking spring/ring whether the slug is in or not.
The front has a detroit. I dont think the ones from Solid can be easily removed. I will prbably order teh PP flanges
92 YJ
04 F-150 4x4
11 F-250 4x4
When I was looking most sub $200 flanges would not allow the cap to be reinstalled. My 44 slugs I had in the waggie came out easily by rocking the truck a couple inches forward and back once I removed the snapring. Hubs have too many parts to break, drive slugs are simple strong and don't stick out from the hub(which is a plus for people running skinny wheels) so it was an easy decision for me. Ill have them this weekend John so if you want to wait I'll give you a report on quality/finish.
Last edited by stx4wheeler; 06-17-2010 at 04:06 PM.
He who dies with the most **** wins, after seeing your collection you are in the lead no doubt!
You don't really risk anything except extra wear on bearings driving on the highway with drive slugs as long as your front driveshaft is balanced and you run a detriot or arb in the front
People forget the TJs don't have hubs or axle disconnects in the front and they drive fine on the highway even with detroits/aussie lockers ect. As long as you don't apply power to the front axle the locker will never lock
Originally Posted by afroman006Originally Posted by afroman006
I have the detroit and flanges on the front of the jeep. Have only run it one trip. Aside from the front driveshaft shaking and making noise, it was unnoticeable. Main reason behind this was that I got tired of installing/removing flanges with the old welded diff. Locking hubs are for suckers.
I need to flush the **** out of the injectors in my crewcab, what is the best **** to use? I have access to one of the pressurized vessels that you hook up to the rail and then pull the fuel pump fuse, but dont know what to put in it. I tried a retardedly high concentration of seafoam through the tank but that didnt seem to do anything.
On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"
Is the tool like this thing. . . http://www.run-rite.com/industry/9677.html
it has a recommendation for fuel cleaner additive attached in the file, no first hand experience though.
Is pulling injectors and rebuilding/replacing not an option? My only other suggestion would be a lucas product.
Seth Stewart '04
2000 Suburban DD
1995 F150 SAS - Needs more work to sell
1998 GMC pickup - sold
2003 Yukon XL - wrecked/motor donor
1975 Scout - TBD
1976 Scout - parts truck
1972 IH 1310 dually - TBD
196? Scout 800 - 302 roller
The injectors are $70 each (x8) so I would like to avoid buying new ones if possible.
On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"
Everybody please keep in mind http://tamor.org/forums/showthread.php?t=8207
I'm not going to edit posts unless they are explicit, however I will start the banning procedure if this keeps up.
i ***d..
will someone explain how to wire up a new set of turn signals. please and thanks.
2010 VW Jetta - DD, 5 Banger, 5 Speed, 1000 Watts of sound!!
1979 Ford Bronco Custom - 400/T18/205.. 35" SSRs, 4" lift, Rancho 5000s, 200 watts of sound!!