Hammer persuasion + battery terminal = leak ----> corrosion
Everybody knows you should only tap on a battery terminal with the backside of a crescent wrench.![]()
Hammer persuasion + battery terminal = leak ----> corrosion
Everybody knows you should only tap on a battery terminal with the backside of a crescent wrench.![]()
BDR
It's nasty, but put a little grease on it once you clean it up. Has always worked well for me. Just how bad are the terminal ends? May be time to replace them.
yeah I would check your battery cables too, battery acid likes to work its way down the battery cables.
get the harbor freight battery brush and clean it then spray it with the stuff that stops battery corrosion
Originally Posted by afroman006
Originally Posted by afroman006
The terminals look fine, I cleaned them last week pretty well and tightened the piss out of them. I think it might be time for a new battery, the one in there shouldn't be used in anything with more than 4 cylinders. Anybody have objections to the big duralast gold batteries?
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
Which comes in handy because you'll typically end up returning those batteries once a year.
I've always been told to avoid electrical items including batteries from Autozone like the plague. I don't remember having any personal experience with this, but I once helped someone install an Autozone heater core that exploded within a week.
I used to use the Walmart batteries because of the price and ease of warranty, but found myself replacing batteries about once a year. I have had good luck with Oreilly's and Napa batteries. I've got an Oreilly's battery in the XJ right now that regularly gets discharged to nil (Braden likes to play in the jeep and always does something like leave the lights on) and it has been coming back just fine.
BDR
I bought a used battery from advance and it has lasted me a year so far. I paid $70 for it but it is the top of the line one that they sell. I have discharged it to nothing countless times and it keeps on ticking.
Would it be worth it for a DD/occasional light wheeler to do a D44 SAS? If tommy is going with tons or rocks, I can get his 44 from him and put it under this without too much work.
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
sure you can buy it from me. It has 4:10 gears so you might as well buy the 9" too![]()
Or I could just get the 44 and not the 9" and then put gears to match my 8.8 so I don't get worse gas mileage.
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
Not to mention that your 9" has no place for my speed sensor on it so I wouldn't have a working speedo since my tranny doesn't have a place for one either.
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
A 8.8 and TTB 44 will handle 33" tires all day long and 35's with some difficulties. How big do you want to go with this truck.
Myself personally, I would not do a SAS for a 44, I would only spend the cash to do a solid axle if it was a 60. atleast 1/3rd of the cost is putting the solid axle in a TTB truck.
-Karl
2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
1965 Chevelle
1975 Corvette
I'm not going any bigger, just higher, about 2" higher than what it is right now. If the TTB can handle skinny 33s all day then there's no reason to SAS.
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
my ttb handled 37's for quite a while, it was the 8.8 i blew up
Ryan Clarke![]()
(214)695-7901